Even in our season of Lent, it's hard to advocate virtue in the kitchen. Kitchens run on vice- cravings and longings and greed. Turning a lustful eye to kitchen scraps does them more favors than thrift ever will- maximizing the possibilities for every kind of pleasure is what kitchens were made for.
While rinsing that single fork as yesterday's cake was in the oven, I looked around the kitchen for anything that might enjoy a little heat, either alongside the cake or to soak up the soft heat of the turned off oven after it was done. Sometimes there is a handful of tired almonds to revive, for instance- a dish of hot toasted almonds nearly always leads to the opening of a bottle of wine This time, I found a half bag of dried coconut:
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What fragrance this has lost will be found again as it toasts- then it will get tossed over curries, and have some rich golden macaroons made of it. |
hunks of stale bread to make croutons for Caesar salad (to have as we watch an episode of Mary Tyler Moore- a favorite lunchtime ritual), and a bowl of oranges on the counter, flesh ready for juicing, rind leftover to make a tangle of wide strips of zest:
Orange zest when cooked fresh takes on a paradoxically unfresh musty flavor. Dry the zest and the fragrance stays juicy and lively- this is as true for Chinese orange chicken as it is for Constant Comment tea:
favorite of our great favorite- great grandmother Mercedes Davidson,
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Shown here in 1966, with me cooing at her. Her pleasures included this tea, magnificent flowers, strictly benevolent gossip, and being deliciously scandalized by bawdiness. |
(and therefore my own favorite too), and easily made with twists of dried orange peel and a few whole cloves steeped with loose black tea:
I could never, like Proust, pick a single taste to be my own madeleine, but this tea is one of them.
Reminiscence, perfumy hot tea, a classic Caesar salad with equally classic 70's television, and- soon- chewy golden macaroons. All this from the prudence of vice and the gentle waning heat of the oven. One pleasure seems always to bring another.
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