Savory Biscuit Rings with Scallions and Dill- for Prolonging the Pleasures of Wine, and Everything Else.

Greek baking is rich with glories. Some are lauded and beloved all over (the spanakopita); some shared with countries to the East (the popular baklava being just one of many, many syrup pastries). What has not seen popularity abroad, strangely, is the savory cookie. These fairly oil rich biscuits are more substantial than a cracker, less of a commitment than a savory pie, more satisfying and nourishing than a potato chip, less sweet than a cookie. They fill a lot of wants- how so many of us have done without them is anybody's guess. There really is no occasion, no time of the day, when these are not ideal.

The savory biscuit ring comes in many varieties, and there are yeast risen (much more like our familiar breadstick), and chemically leavened (baking powder) short (that means lots of butter or oil) dough- these are the more substantial. The formula for the short dough biscuits is roughly the same, and these are made from a hybrid of recipes, chiefly to find the right proportion of leavening to flour- enough to make them airy and light, but to leave no trace of the flavor of baking powder. I then improvised, using for flavor and moisture what was at hand- the tops of three bunches of scallions, and a large handful of dill.

The deck of cards is here for scale- be lavish with green things.
It's also a serving suggestion- these are perfect to enjoy at the card table.

We will need:

about 1 liter/ 4 cups loosely packed herbs and scallions 

500 g/4 C flour

15 ml/ 3 1/2 tsp, baking powder

6 ml/ 1 generous tsp. salt

some pepper

240 ml/ 1 C olive oil

120 ml/ 1/2 C retsina, white wine, or water

Wash the dill and scallions and pulse in a blender with the oil:

Note how that large stack of scallions and dill only added 60 ml to the total volume when pureed.

Blend the dry ingredients and add the green onion-herb oil, blending with your fingers:

This stocky little man with the key in his belly is a beloved classic image here. 

The mixture will be crumbly, oily, and vibrantly green. To this, add the retsina:

The oily dough will take it readily as you mix with your hands. 

Add a few more drops of wine to make it workable if you need to. 

The bright emerald color will sadly not survive the heat of the oven, but it does make them more fun to work with, which is a good thing. With the large amount of baking powder activated by the moisture, the dough is already beginning to puff, and with the generous amount of oil it comes apart easily. Take a piece the size of a huge walnut/very small egg and, with determination, make a rope by rolling it on the counter with your fingers. As you do, the dough will begin to split lengthwise; this promises a wonderful crumbling texture when baked. Form a ring:

They do not spread but they do puff- leave just a little space between them on the parchment lined baking sheet. Since the dough splits parallel to the direction it is shaped in, once formed it holds together nicely. The finished cookies are delicate and crumbly in the mouth, but not too fragile on the serving platter.

Bake them at 170 C/ 350 F until they start to turn golden on the bottom, and just a little on the top too. It is a rich dough and may still have a little give hot from the oven- as with many cookies, it will continue to harden as it cools. If baked until crisp to the touch in the oven, they may become dry and lose their flavor.

These are pleasantly filling- good with a glass of wine so as to enjoy it more sensibly. Also a fine choice with coffee and tea. And as a snack for the beach when the sun has depleted you and need a little salt, there really is nothing finer- if they fall in the sand you can just blow it right off (it's the end of April- we'll have to start thinking of these things soon).