How to indulge in a month of celebrations with modesty and zeal? Crudites (and champagne). There is nothing austere about eating a still life for lunch. You want at least six things to make a lavish plate, several of them, despite the name, not raw. A little love brings out fabulous things. (Also all that endless chewing makes you feel like a goat, and it is very hard to say anything at all, clever or otherwise). A few simple steps make a platter that's all glamour, all virtue:
Radishes- This is the most fun- branch out from retro roses to every botanical excess. A sharp knife and some ice water (opens the petals of your flowers, and shaves off a little of the radishes' bite), and it's Chihuly in a bowl.
Cauliflower- Boil in 2-3 cm salted water with some vinegar and peppercorns added (stems in the water, crowns above) for about 5 minutes, until they barely yield to a sharp knife. Strain and chill quickly- put them out on the terrace.
Broccoli- The same, but salt only. Watch carefully- the steaming brings out a vibrant emerald tone. Too much, and it turns army green and tastes like school lunch. Cut off the stems and peel them- throw them in first to give them a head start.
Carrots- Never just raw. There are two things you can do. Chilling them in a mixture of one part vinegar to two parts water, plus salt and if you like some peeled garlic cloves and peppercorns (take out the garlic after 20 minutes or so unless you want them strong), transforms them from crunchy to crisp- much more delicate texture, and nice enough to enjoy on their own like a pickle. The other thing to do is treat them as above, but for a shorter time- just a minute or at the most 2- with some vinegar in the water, and maybe a garlic clove also.
Green beans- probably frozen (!) in winter- nonetheless a fresh tasting addition. Treat as carrots, but cook long enough so that they become tender and lose any raw flavor (but not until they are limp). Vivid color!
Fennel- Slice very thin wedges with the stem on, holding them together- this way each bite has some of the tender inside.
Cucumbers- Prepare at the last minute so they don't dry out or go limp. Spears are fine, but leaving them half peeled (try a zester) and sliced on the diagonal gives them a fresh look and a pleasant bite.
To these add what you like- conventional choices like celery stalks, cherry tomatoes and red pepper strips. It's a little messy but you'll have several platters worth of crudites- each one a meal that feels more like a cocktail party and leaves you svelte enough to have truffles for breakfast.
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