Bliss Springs Eternal- a Classic Spa Weekend at Thermae Sylla

At this classic Spa in Evia's loveliest corner,
I experienced the beauty of Winter in Greece- perhaps its (secret) best season.

Two mellifluous onomatopoeiac words in Greek have no English equivalent: θρόισμα (throisma)- the rustling of the wind through dry leaves, and φλοίσβος (phleisvos)- the sound of pebbles dragged rhythmically back and forth by a gentle tide lapping the beach. Greek is a language of poets, and winter is their season- the contemplative beauty of bare branches is finally revealed; the light is more golden, the shadows longer, and sunsets are positively baroque. The occasional high winds are full of drama. Blinding sun softens, beach bars fall silent, and most visitors are back home again. What is left is the very essence of Greece- naked and beautiful.

Winter is the perfect time to soak this essence up. Literally. Burgeoning to the earth's surface from a depth of three kilometers, somewhere beneath the Thermae Sylla Spa, is some of Europe's finest (in the top three!) therapeutic water. It's so hot- 85 C/185 F- you could make a coddled egg, and it is rich with, apparently, every essential thing. There is a compelling chemical analysis* (see below) of the water's superb properties; my subjective analysis is based on the more compelling fact that my skin is now so soft and so radiant I am not sure I could legally buy a bottle of vodka.

The Spa in Edipsos, Evia, has tamed these (magical?) waters and been using them to heal body and soul for 120 years of health, and a little glamour- (whose bodies? Omar Sharriff's, Greta Garbo's, Winston Churchill's, and of course Maria Callas' for a start). Some friends and I - the members of Travel Bloggers Greece- got to join this list: we were hosted with great warmth by the spa for our one year anniversary, to see- or rather feel- the wonder of natural therapeutic waters. Voula Karatziou – Anastasopoulou and the kindest staff ever made us feel as cossetted and pampered as the waters themselves did. It wasn't the standard professionalism and courtesy that a five star experience offers; this was something more. The reason we felt so truly like guests is because they- as Voula shared with me- feel truly like a family. The management, the staff, the guests, the history, the beautiful location, and of course the great waters flowing up from deep in the earth- all part of one long, grand tradition. We were delighted to become a part of the tradition ourselves- it's an experience that stays with you.

What is the definition of luxury? Perhaps when all the elements of an experience are at their very zenith. By that measure, I had the ne plus ultra of night swims. We were in the midst of a windstorm big enough to be reported on BBC world. Night had fallen. A bright half-moon was soon covered by black clouds and rain started to fall in fat drops. I braved the elements from the 28 - 32 C degree warmth of the outdoor "pool" (the word doesn't feel large enough to describe something this fanciful and enormous):

See those three tiny specks in the middle of the pool? Those are bathers.

The water is half thermal waters, and half sea water. Hot water pumps up from a grate right between these two palm trees. I swam all over the enormous pool, then floated there- the warmth of the thermal waters caressing my back, cold wind howling, rain pelting my face. I would have fallen ravenous on a pack of saltines after a swim like that. But I didn't have to- it was fillet of fresh dorade at our festive one-year anniversary dinner, and the best chocolate cake anyone has ever eaten.

Thermae Sylla is a spa in the classic sense- offering not just luxurious and soul-soothing beauty treatments as many so-called spas do, but therapies, under the guidance of an in-house doctor, often prescribed by the guest's doctor at home. These latter are carried out in a well-appointed medical environment that inspires confidence. The aesthetic and relaxation treatments have their own various plush oases:

Relaxing with the sweet smell of warmed fresh hay in the Rasul salon.

4 different muds are slathered over the body for a Moroccan "Rasul" treatment-
this exotic tiled room with heated seats is where you let them go to work.

The Spa is easy to find- buses service Edipsos from Athens (just a couple of hours) and Thessaloniki (longer- with luscious scenery, and if you are lucky some sheep)-

Both trips include a short ferry ride (2,40 for my fare, plus another 2 for a cappuccino), adding a little of the romance of Greek travel to the journey-

*The waters are rich in potassium, sodium, lithium, amonium, calcium, magnesium, aluminum, chlorine, bromium, iodine, sulfuric ion, hydrophosphoric ion, hydrocarbonate ion. The spa has detailed information about the quantities of each mineral. The waters are odorless but for a pleasant faint tang of mineral health, and salty on the lips. The  water- pure and clear- has some body to it, a palpable softness. I did not shower, but just used the the shower head to wash my hair- you simply don't want to rinse it from your skin. We are having a cold winter, but you will not need any lotion or oil- your skin will be plump and lush and silky from the waters themselves.

Travel Bloggers Greece were guests of Thermae Sylla Spa- the kindest of hosts. Thank you to them, and to Travel Bloggers Greece for arranging this festive weekend!