Inspiring Destinations in Greece: 2016 was all Beauty and Character

2016, a year of sadness and loss in so many ways, was generous in experience and inspiration. When you blog and write about travel, experiencing is the very core of the vocation, and the year was rich in it- from the grittiest of ouzeries to five star rooftop gourmet heavens, we had many fabulous experiences. 

It's not the beauty that keeps Greece fascinating: it's the fact that the beauty represents an ideal. It has been a hard year for many in Greece, and throughout Europe, for the people already here and for the refugees being welcomed every day.  Reflecting on the many wonderful, authentic experiences I had, a handful stand out.

It all comes down to character. 

Lesvos:

Giorgos- our host, guide, and friend -
on a dirt road high above the sea, 
the most beautiful and remote place we visited all year.

The longing strains of Amanes reveal a part of the island's exotic, elusive identity 

Skala Eressos- world's most romantic beach. But no need to take my word for it:
"When I look on you a moment, then I can speak no more, but my tongue falls silent, and at once a delicate flame courses beneath my skin, and with my eyes I see nothing, and my ears hum, and a wet sweat bathes me and a trembling seizes me all over."-Sappho

By the measure of character and beauty both, Lesvos was the destination of the year. Some friends and I from Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on a unique trip to experience the beauties of an island whose shores have welcomed over a half a million refugees (more like 600,000). That was the true beauty - the grace and compassion. Tourism on Lesvos has suffered. This dynamic woman, Maria, invited us to stay at their Natura Studios in Skala Kalloni. Her husband Giorgos took us all around the island in a 4 wheel drive, sharing their lives with us. Angeliki and Vassiliki from the regional authority arranged our airtickets, Eva distillery a celebration of the island's culture, Gabriela a wonderful day in Molyvos. We fell in love with Lesvos, an island that represents the best Greece has to offer on every level- nature, history, music (amanes), the refined pleasures of ouzo, charm, and - best of all - grace.

Istanbul:

Charlene, just learning that the suicide bomb we heard had killed ten people. 

The year started with sadness. My first morning ever in Istanbul was also my first brush with the brutality growing around us. We could hear the explosion at the Blue Mosque, then a long silence, then sirens, then helicopters. After such a traumatic event, our main impression remained the gracious, refined behavior of the people of Istanbul, an inspiring example of living life with grace.

Evia:

Our otherworldy winter paradise in Evia

Right after Istanbul was our Anniversary get-together, for which I had no heart after Istanbul. Voula Karat and the family at Thermae Sylla gave us an experience that was therapeutic on every level, and it was a joyous occasion. Being with blogger friends made all kinds of sense- embrace life, and share the experience.

Almopeia:

Pater Illarion inspires with a message of banishing misery and
embracing joy in everyday life

Almopeia is a quiet region in the north of Greece, known in the city chiefly as a destination for therapeutic hot springs. They are open all day and night, and an hour's drive will bring you. This makes them a wholesome cap to an evening of excess: that hot waterfall pounds the effects of any ill judgement right out of you. But on this trip, I found rejuvenation not in the falls, but in the words of a priest. He had found that in replacing "I have to" with "I want to" grace and joy has filled his life. I tried it- it works.

Eumelia:

Marilena, our sommelier, was literally bursting with life- 
The most engaging wine tasting ever.

In July, my friend Janet and I visited Marilena and Frangiskos to share in the vision of their bio-dynamic Eumelia. Frangiskos left an EU job in Brussels, drawn by the creative possibilities of living in harmony with the environment.  Theirs is a constant evolution, giving rise that extend to philosophies touching every area of life. And don't imagine some Guru/cleansing thing- we had an abundantly great time- pure joy. My most recommended trip for 2017 would be their fully curated (and sumptuously catered) "Experience, feel, taste Laconia" week.

Kilkis:

Olga and Natalia of the Pikrolimni Cultural Society 

The last trip of the year was local- Kilkis, landlocked and not even remotely touristy. Kilkis is known for its livestock and dairy, the fish of its lakes. We found serenity (Greece's Haiku Destination), endurance, and, indeed, wonderful hospitality. At Pikrolimni was the warmest of all; we arrived at the cultural center to find a grill smoking and a long table set up. They shared their cuisine with us- local Pontian specialties like piroshkis, and dark delicious wine.  It was the highlight of our trip. That is what Greece does at its best- make you feel truly welcome.

Read More »

Fear and Grace in Archangel

Note- this post has some images of church frescoes you might find brutal and unnerving- I certainly did.

Nothing has prepared me for entering the monastery of Archangel Mihail in the village of the same name high in the mountains of Almopeia. The outside is painted, unique to the churches we had visited, but in a style in keeping with the charming folkloric mood we had seen in other churches of the area on this marvelous trip.*

We go in- the mood turns from folkloric simplicity to unbridled abandon. Color everywhere, and passion with it, Our tour guide, Nikos Zacharakis, refers to the frescoes as naive, and truly they are- no individual characteristics distinguish one face from another human proportions oddly rendered, an approach to color and line that is exuberant and actually zany. 

Spirals on the columns are crooked and uneven- they lend liveliness and spontaneity.

Then I see the frescoes on the outer walls. The scenes were shocking. Scenes of martyrdom in an Orthodox church are common, especially in the fore chambers. Often the martyrdom is not being enacted, but just alluded to- some arrows on the ground near an unharmed St. Sebastian, lions licking St. Ignatius. even when the martyrdom is shown, it is never with the zeal depicted here. I grew up with Buddist God-parents, Jewish friends, and Catholic holidays. Also centuries of Catholic imagery- The Ecstasy of St. Teresa, 

The martyrdom of St. Sebastian.

I've seen fantastic horrors of hell in Bosch paintings, graphic visceral death in Grunewald paintings. Nothing prepared me for the demented zeal of these images- Demons prying the soul from the mouth of an unrighteous man

in another, impassive depraved men cooperate with a huge saw

You'll notice I'm not the only one who finds these  upsetting. The faces of the soldiers and the demons have been scratched out, as well as the more gruesome evidence of harm.

I find it worrisome. Were I alone I would have  left. Our host the monk arrives, and everyone gathers around for a prayer. Amidst the demented images, it's not very comforting. I stay towards the back. 

Only when we go back outside to examine the main fresco do I feel more at ease. It's not the fresco- depicting our afterlife journey it is filled with demons and torture

It's the priest, wise, kind, and frankly looking a lot like Richard Gere (I take no credit for this observation- one of my travelling companions noticed). Rather than seeing the descent into hell, I see the possibility Pater Illarion shares that through our prayers here on earth, we better the lot of souls departed. Not damnation- potential. Then he draws our attention to the corners-

Angels are rolling out a scroll of the heavens themselves, glittering with stars, and where once was dread is now wonder.

He invites us to the reception hall to get to know us better- a personal encounter such as I have never had. He hears our ideas, and shares his own- a piece of wisdom so elegant in its directness and easily employed. It is simply that words have meaning, psychological meaning. Change your words, change your soul.  He has eliminated the words "must/have to" from his vocabulary, replacing them with "want to," in essence, replacing obligation with joy. Try it in your mind right now and see if it doesn't make the day and its tasks a lot more agreeable. When I find myself burdened, I return to Pater Illarion's advice, and I am the better for it.

He walks us to the Monastery's gate

I wonder if his wisdom and kindness has made the frescoes somehow less frightening, and slip away from the group to check. It hasn't. But if anything, their brutality sharpens the relevance of his wise and practical measures in pursuing Grace, and helping us to do so likewise, this week, and hopefully always. His inspiration has lasting relevance. 

Happy Holy Week!

*Clleagues and I have been invited to the region of Almopeia for a familiarization trip under the auspices of the program Living History/Living Nature. Their generosity has no bearing on opinions expressed- it was an incredible experience, and a joy to share it.

Read More »

The Lushness of Greece in Springtime- Hiking along the Picturesque White River.

Nikos, our host, is concerned about the weather- we are on a trip to Almopia, invited to explore its picturesque landscape and cultural heritage. He wants nature to be at its best, and it's gray, drizzling, raining outright, dark and moody sometimes, pearl gray like an oyster others. The sun does not show, not even once in three days. It turns out, this is best- perfect, even. Anything can shine in the sun. Rain reveals what's truly beautiful; I will find myself longing for the lushness of a damp day in the forests of Almopia every bit as much as I do a swim in Crete.

This region has good bones- a raw beauty surging up from the earth. Aridea is the main town. Loutraki ("Baths"), or Pozar- about ten minutes away- is by far the best known destination. Warm, silky, therapeutic waters draw visitors 24 hour a day, all year. (Really- you can book a private bath at 4:30 in the morning). Steam rises from the outdoor pools. I would love to come in the snow. The thermal spring is next to a river, and this is our morning's destination- exploring the Bellitsa with our mountaineer guides, Alexandros Mylonas and Dimitris Bozinis. It's a special river. In local dialect, "Bellitsa" means "the little white one"- named for the white stones and sand at the bottom. It's surprising. A slice of pale turquoise Caribbean cutting through a dense deciduous forest, it turns the landscape into a Japanese woodcut:

For the stark drama of bare trees in the whiteness, we usually have to wait for snow- the Bellitsa glows with the fresh brightness of winter, even in Spring:

The woods are anything but silent. There may be birds, but who knows- rains of the last few days and the melting snow from the mountains are coursing through our ears.

It's an easy hike truthfully. Our guides are there to keep us out of trouble, and keep us company. Alexandros also shows us what we can eat- a purple flower guides us to a crisp bitter root- volvi- that is delicious slightly pickled and eaten alongside a glass of grappa. It's not mushroom season- if it were, he would show us the ones he forages to make into a sweet preserve (really- mushrooms in a dense sugar syrup!). He also knows all the greens and herbs (and how you know it is spring in the forest: when the leaves of the plane tree are the size of duck's feet). Even though we are never more than a couple of hours from civilization, being with someone who has this skill is primally comforting:

Dimitris easily persuades me that macaroni, a bouillon cube, and melted snow cooked over a gas burner is the most delicious thing in the world after climbing to 2,180 m to cook it:

and our host- Nikos Tsimas- forwarding the vision of intertwining nature, history, and art (LhiLna- Living History, Living Nature) that has brought us here:

Honestly, everyone comes to this spot for the spa. Bringing us here for the river was an inspired choice: in all the steam and drama, it's easy to overlook the luminous Bellitsa feeding the crashing waterfall. But I'd come for the river alone, to walk for an hour or two, climbing over a fallen tree, balancing on the smooth pale rocks. Not that I wouldn't be glad to drench myself in luxury when I return:

(Walden meets Breakfast at Tiffany's.)

Read More »