Inspiring Destinations in Greece: 2016 was all Beauty and Character

2016, a year of sadness and loss in so many ways, was generous in experience and inspiration. When you blog and write about travel, experiencing is the very core of the vocation, and the year was rich in it- from the grittiest of ouzeries to five star rooftop gourmet heavens, we had many fabulous experiences. 

It's not the beauty that keeps Greece fascinating: it's the fact that the beauty represents an ideal. It has been a hard year for many in Greece, and throughout Europe, for the people already here and for the refugees being welcomed every day.  Reflecting on the many wonderful, authentic experiences I had, a handful stand out.

It all comes down to character. 

Lesvos:

Giorgos- our host, guide, and friend -
on a dirt road high above the sea, 
the most beautiful and remote place we visited all year.

The longing strains of Amanes reveal a part of the island's exotic, elusive identity 

Skala Eressos- world's most romantic beach. But no need to take my word for it:
"When I look on you a moment, then I can speak no more, but my tongue falls silent, and at once a delicate flame courses beneath my skin, and with my eyes I see nothing, and my ears hum, and a wet sweat bathes me and a trembling seizes me all over."-Sappho

By the measure of character and beauty both, Lesvos was the destination of the year. Some friends and I from Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on a unique trip to experience the beauties of an island whose shores have welcomed over a half a million refugees (more like 600,000). That was the true beauty - the grace and compassion. Tourism on Lesvos has suffered. This dynamic woman, Maria, invited us to stay at their Natura Studios in Skala Kalloni. Her husband Giorgos took us all around the island in a 4 wheel drive, sharing their lives with us. Angeliki and Vassiliki from the regional authority arranged our airtickets, Eva distillery a celebration of the island's culture, Gabriela a wonderful day in Molyvos. We fell in love with Lesvos, an island that represents the best Greece has to offer on every level- nature, history, music (amanes), the refined pleasures of ouzo, charm, and - best of all - grace.

Istanbul:

Charlene, just learning that the suicide bomb we heard had killed ten people. 

The year started with sadness. My first morning ever in Istanbul was also my first brush with the brutality growing around us. We could hear the explosion at the Blue Mosque, then a long silence, then sirens, then helicopters. After such a traumatic event, our main impression remained the gracious, refined behavior of the people of Istanbul, an inspiring example of living life with grace.

Evia:

Our otherworldy winter paradise in Evia

Right after Istanbul was our Anniversary get-together, for which I had no heart after Istanbul. Voula Karat and the family at Thermae Sylla gave us an experience that was therapeutic on every level, and it was a joyous occasion. Being with blogger friends made all kinds of sense- embrace life, and share the experience.

Almopeia:

Pater Illarion inspires with a message of banishing misery and
embracing joy in everyday life

Almopeia is a quiet region in the north of Greece, known in the city chiefly as a destination for therapeutic hot springs. They are open all day and night, and an hour's drive will bring you. This makes them a wholesome cap to an evening of excess: that hot waterfall pounds the effects of any ill judgement right out of you. But on this trip, I found rejuvenation not in the falls, but in the words of a priest. He had found that in replacing "I have to" with "I want to" grace and joy has filled his life. I tried it- it works.

Eumelia:

Marilena, our sommelier, was literally bursting with life- 
The most engaging wine tasting ever.

In July, my friend Janet and I visited Marilena and Frangiskos to share in the vision of their bio-dynamic Eumelia. Frangiskos left an EU job in Brussels, drawn by the creative possibilities of living in harmony with the environment.  Theirs is a constant evolution, giving rise that extend to philosophies touching every area of life. And don't imagine some Guru/cleansing thing- we had an abundantly great time- pure joy. My most recommended trip for 2017 would be their fully curated (and sumptuously catered) "Experience, feel, taste Laconia" week.

Kilkis:

Olga and Natalia of the Pikrolimni Cultural Society 

The last trip of the year was local- Kilkis, landlocked and not even remotely touristy. Kilkis is known for its livestock and dairy, the fish of its lakes. We found serenity (Greece's Haiku Destination), endurance, and, indeed, wonderful hospitality. At Pikrolimni was the warmest of all; we arrived at the cultural center to find a grill smoking and a long table set up. They shared their cuisine with us- local Pontian specialties like piroshkis, and dark delicious wine.  It was the highlight of our trip. That is what Greece does at its best- make you feel truly welcome.

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Winter Swim at Lake Vouliagmeni

If you're lucky, in Greece you can keep swimming through November. But by the holidays, you have to be really tough. Or you can try a thermal spring- you can see the steam rising from Lake Vouliagmeni on a cool day.

The lake is sheltered by a cliff that catches the sun, and has a small beach at one edge, There is a narrow wooden deck running all along one long side, across from the cliff. It's just wide enough for a chaise lounge and a little room to walk by. Then it's just big enough for a chair. These are the best spots- get out the stack of magazines you have brought, read, nap, watch the light change over the cliff face. Time to go in? The steam rising off the surface really only means that the water is warmer than the air. It doesn't mean it is warm. What you do is you go in, then get out and feel how much cooler the air actually is, especially when you're undressed and wet, wait a minute and get good and cold, then plunge back in. Not too bad now. Keep moving, slowly. Were you spoiled by the salty thick waters of the Aegean all summer, where you can keep yourself afloat paddling gently with one hand while you hold a gin tonic in the other? (not every time- I had my godmother visiting). You will sink like a stone in this lake if you don't swim like you mean it. 

Anyway it's good to keep moving- there are small fish that will come and nibble the dry skin off your feet if you stay still for more than a minute. So keep moving gently if you don't want an involuntary pedicure. but some people come here just for that! They roll up their pants legs and sit on the deck, swarms of fish obscuring their feet. I tried it. It's described as a "relaxing massage" on the lake's own website, but looking down and seeing myself being gnawed by a swarm of fish was not relaxing.

There is a pleasant feel of gentle convalescence- more spa than beach party. The lake is supplied from a spring rich in salts and minerals (potassium, sodium, lithium, ammonium, calcium, iron, iodine) - good for muscles, bones and joints, and good for the skin. Many people are here for therapeutic reasons. Give yourself over to the spa mood, and take your time. Your ten euro admission entitles you to lounge in comfort all day, so bring some magazines, and a sketchbook.

Lake Vouliagmeni's winter hours are 8 am - 5 pm.

Visit their site for a phone number and information on how to reach the lake by public transportation:

More spa experiences in Greece:

Bliss Springs Eternal at Thermae Sylla

The Ultimate Spa Holiday

Walden meets Breakfast at Tiffany's in Almopeia

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The Lushness of Greece in Springtime- Hiking along the Picturesque White River.

Nikos, our host, is concerned about the weather- we are on a trip to Almopia, invited to explore its picturesque landscape and cultural heritage. He wants nature to be at its best, and it's gray, drizzling, raining outright, dark and moody sometimes, pearl gray like an oyster others. The sun does not show, not even once in three days. It turns out, this is best- perfect, even. Anything can shine in the sun. Rain reveals what's truly beautiful; I will find myself longing for the lushness of a damp day in the forests of Almopia every bit as much as I do a swim in Crete.

This region has good bones- a raw beauty surging up from the earth. Aridea is the main town. Loutraki ("Baths"), or Pozar- about ten minutes away- is by far the best known destination. Warm, silky, therapeutic waters draw visitors 24 hour a day, all year. (Really- you can book a private bath at 4:30 in the morning). Steam rises from the outdoor pools. I would love to come in the snow. The thermal spring is next to a river, and this is our morning's destination- exploring the Bellitsa with our mountaineer guides, Alexandros Mylonas and Dimitris Bozinis. It's a special river. In local dialect, "Bellitsa" means "the little white one"- named for the white stones and sand at the bottom. It's surprising. A slice of pale turquoise Caribbean cutting through a dense deciduous forest, it turns the landscape into a Japanese woodcut:

For the stark drama of bare trees in the whiteness, we usually have to wait for snow- the Bellitsa glows with the fresh brightness of winter, even in Spring:

The woods are anything but silent. There may be birds, but who knows- rains of the last few days and the melting snow from the mountains are coursing through our ears.

It's an easy hike truthfully. Our guides are there to keep us out of trouble, and keep us company. Alexandros also shows us what we can eat- a purple flower guides us to a crisp bitter root- volvi- that is delicious slightly pickled and eaten alongside a glass of grappa. It's not mushroom season- if it were, he would show us the ones he forages to make into a sweet preserve (really- mushrooms in a dense sugar syrup!). He also knows all the greens and herbs (and how you know it is spring in the forest: when the leaves of the plane tree are the size of duck's feet). Even though we are never more than a couple of hours from civilization, being with someone who has this skill is primally comforting:

Dimitris easily persuades me that macaroni, a bouillon cube, and melted snow cooked over a gas burner is the most delicious thing in the world after climbing to 2,180 m to cook it:

and our host- Nikos Tsimas- forwarding the vision of intertwining nature, history, and art (LhiLna- Living History, Living Nature) that has brought us here:

Honestly, everyone comes to this spot for the spa. Bringing us here for the river was an inspired choice: in all the steam and drama, it's easy to overlook the luminous Bellitsa feeding the crashing waterfall. But I'd come for the river alone, to walk for an hour or two, climbing over a fallen tree, balancing on the smooth pale rocks. Not that I wouldn't be glad to drench myself in luxury when I return:

(Walden meets Breakfast at Tiffany's.)

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The Ultimate Holiday

Strong, hot, fragrant tea would be just the thing you want when your cheeks are flushed from a windy January night- I had not been in the lobby ten seconds when Tonia handed me a glass. This apparently is life at Thermae Sylla Spa- having the thing you need before you even realize it. Upstairs in my lovely room, fresh apples, water, stacks of fluffy towels, and the BBC reporting on the very same high winds raging just outside the tall french doors set the tone. The sea was rough and the palm trees were swaying on their fat trunks. All that violence heightened the primal sense of luxury: shelter from the elements, meals to nourish and delight, the warmth of hospitality and welcome. 

(And the big marble bathroom somehow made me feel like Audrey Hepburn).

Some colleagues and I were guests of Thermae Sylla for the weekend- we had come to celebrate the one year Anniversary of Travel Bloggers Greece (I wrote about it here), a group dedicated to sharing our love of everything Greece with the rest of the world. This was a perfect destination for us to discover and to share- super-accessible (a couple hours from Athens), but a complete get-away- it feels like the edge of the world:

This beautiful corner of Greece- Aidipsos- has subtlety- not so high profile as some of the islands. The season, too, has subtlety- winter in Greece is fabulous (the more so for being kind of a secret). Lastly, what with all the beaches and archaeology and so on, people don't necessarily think of spas when they think of Greece. This is a mistake. Thermae-Sylla has some of the best water in Europe (in the top three), and has a grand 120 year history of its own. Greece, blessed in so many ways, has many excellent natural springs (read about them here). All reasons to shine light on this quintessentially Greek experience.

Actually, this spring, coming from 3 kilometers deep in the earth, has its share of fame. Aristotle refers to the Springs of Aidipsos in his writings on geological and climactic phenomena. Plutarch also wrote of the waters. The spa takes its name from Roman General Sylla. Healed from the waters, he preserved the town from the conquering armies. Augustus and Hadrian later visited too. More glamorous- and recent visitors- Maria Callas, Omar Sharif, Greta Garbo. And Russian Cosmonaut Sergey Revin, to recover from his time in space by reconnecting with the earth (on a corner of planet that can look so... otherworldly).

Voula, our hostess, explained that the waters of Greece's springs bubbles up from the earth on their own. 
As they require no pump, their properties are fully retained.

The mineral focus of the holiday became a symbol for the elemental- what is elemental to luxury? Unlike many fine holidays, a stay at Thermae-Sylla centers your focus on the physical, indeed on you, yourself, your rejuvenation. There are transforming treatments- both medical (some guests are here for treatments prescribed by a physician), and indulgent (spiritually transforming?). The spa had made available to us the two steam baths- the photogenic thermal Grotto-

and the hotter, more densely steamy, lushly sensuous (and un-photographable), fresh Eucalyptus branch filled Farmer's Steambath. The fragrance revives you as the steam relaxes you, and you emerge feeling completely purified. 

Of the extensive catalog of treatments, the full body thermal mud therapy sounded the most fabulous. Several of of us did have one- (read about my friends' experiences here and here).  I had not yet seen the natural outdoor pools, and longed to try them, and there was not enough time for both: Thermae-Sylla is in the best location in town. Directly in front of the hotel, thermal waters come gushing from the sea wall, forming natural terraced pools of scalding therapeutic water, mercifully quite shallow, descending to the sea. 

The myth of Hephaestos striking the earth at this blessed spot with a hammer for this spring to emerge seems completely plausible: the water flows up from the earth at 85 C/ 195 F, with dramatic clouds of steam as it hits the cool sea air. Of course it loses some of the heat; the top pool is still scalding though. They get more tolerable as they go down, mixing finally with the waters of the sea. They are lined with a creamy white mineral-rich mud. My hair was caked with it all the way back to Thessaloniki. I didn't mind.

Thank you to Dimitrios Asithianakis for this photo of a spontaneous perfect moment-
 If I did not have it, I wouldn't believe I had actually been in such a phenomenal place.

I'm an urban creature; my relationship to culture is a more defining feature of the everyday than my relationship to the planet. Bathing in its rich minerals everyday, and lolling about in an almost lunar landscape brought things into perspective. This connection to the earth extends to the botanical- the Spa has its own farm, and much of what we dined on came from it- fabulous oil, herbs, produce. This is not hotel food, or even spa food so sumptuous!). It is just, like everything else here, the ideal distillation of the best the earth has to offer- luxury at its most elemental.

As a perfect meal does, I'll finish with dessert. On our first day at the spa, after a morning tour and a meeting, and a lunch of every fresh and delicious thing, we were longing to try the waters at last. What was keeping us from the thermal pools? The very best baklava I, or my colleague, another food blogger (you can visit her here), who is actually Greek and so has tried more baklavas than I, had ever eaten. We shared a piece. Then, instead of changing into our bathing suits, we shared two more. Thank you to pastry chef Dimitrios Patsis for defining the dessert (and to Svetlana for the fabulous creamy puddings at breakfast!). Again, perfection of the elemental seemed the hallmark of our stay.

Thermae Sylla's rooms start at 150 euroes. Treatments and therapies are charged separately- details available on their website. 

I was a guest of the spa. My opinions are my own. I loved it. If you get a chance, go.

Another decisive factor of a perfect vacation? The best company.
Here is Eleanna taking some photographs.

And here we are with Voula!- Marissa (l) and Elena (r), 
who founded Travel Bloggers Greece and arranged this fabulous weekend, 
are beside her.

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