Explore Lesvos from Skala Kallonis, the ldeal Seaside Village

Around this time last year, I was invited on the most unique blogging trip I had ever had. This dynamic woman from Lesvos, with an ice cream parlour and rooms in picturesque Skala Kallonis, saw that Lesvos' hospitality industry was having a hard time, after a half a million refugees had passed through the island, sometimes literally washing up on the the shores. The crisis had touched everyone we met, on a deeply personal level. So Maria invited us, Travel Bloggers Greece, to experience what Lesvos is- beauty, inside and out. Today is her birthday- and honestly we think about her all the time- that trip made us all think about Greece, and about blogging, with a deeper sense of purpose than before. Greece offers a lot, possibly everything, as a destination- culture, history, natural beauty. But at its best it also offers inspiration, values, an opportunity to connect with your humanity.

This was not your typical FAM trip (familiarization trip- like bloggers and journalists are invited on to get to know an area and write about it). The regional authority got us plane tickets, but all the other hospitality was personal. We stayed with Maria and Giorgos at their Natura Studios, right on the main square. From our balconies we looked out at the harbor, and we had fabulous breakfast in the sunny courtyard every morning. Great, cozy rooms, and perfect for families- like little apartments.

and we dined with their friends at cafes and restaurants. We went to a party at a distillery, made a little film there, and heard the Amanes- Lesvos' beautiful genre with a longing, haunting voice. 

Most FAM trips have an agenda- a tight schedule. We had some scheduled cultural visits- the Archaeological museum, the Gatalousi Castle, and the Petrified forest- all  of which you will want to see- but the rest of the schedule was determined by... the Island. But what do I mean by that? We're right across from Turkey; my phone thinks I'm in Istanbul.

Like the Amanes, life here has an Eastern taste; this gives them a more familiar relationship with the metaphysical. We are happy to put ourselves in the hands of the Island itself- no plan. Giorgos has the ideal approach- he is ready to take us wherever fate commands. He- and fate- get it right, every time.

Giorgos has a 4 wheel drive- useful for the island's most wild roads- with a flatbed in the back for taking in a 360 degree view and tasting the Lesvos air. 

We are out on the road seeing the whole island, but on our last day, we get to know Skala Kalonis, the perfect village where we have been staying every night.

The Ideal Location:

This map is several centuries old. But Lesvos looks more or less like this- intricate shape, lots to discover. See the bay on the left? Skala Kalonis is nestled in the bay- the most central spot on the island.

Fish, and the life of the sea:

This is the quintessential fishing village- trata (small fishing boats) bobbing in a peaceful harbor, winds at night that would wake the devil but are sweet as a lullaby if you have a clean conscience, a shipbuilder- 

Mr. Psaradelis, in speaking of shipbuilding, spoke beautifully of life itself

did you know that every single piece of wood in a boat has its own name, like our bones?- and simply the best fish you will have in Greece, which is to say, the best fish anywhere.

Passionate Ornithologists from all over the World, and the birds that draw them:

Lesvos Birding, by Steve Dudley, offers all the information you need to make the most of a birding trip. He is also a great supporter of Lesvos now during the refugee crisis. The worldwide birding community continues to visit Lesvos! The birders seem to like Dionysos restaurant- we certainly did- and that is where we met Steve Dudley.

Classic Dining Experiences:

We had dinner at a different restaurant every night- the food in Skala Kallonis is excellent.  You can rate a homestyle restaurant by how they do a classic dish- moussaka can be so-so or sublime- the aptly named Ambrosia has the best we'd ever tasted. Dionysos- mentioned here above, is a favorite of birders and I think anyone else- great seafood and fish, very friendly. For classic tastes with a more playful approach, Caprice Kitchen Bar gets it totally right. I noticed the trip advisor reviews mention the chicken fillet and prawns in creamy ouzo sauce- this was delicious. Great beachfront spot, and probably a good place to have ouzo meze, all afternoon. 

"It's five o'clock in the afternoon eleven-thirty in the morning somewhere"

You know how they say "it's five o'clock somewhere" to justify a drink early in the day? They don't say that in Lesvos. Pleasure needs no justification, and on Lesvos, neither does ouzo. Our schedule required that we have lunch at 11. And what is fried fish without an ouzo, especially on Lesvos, the island that has perfected the culture of what is possibly the world's most civilized drink. The fish was fresh caught mullet- fried, I think, in a little cornmeal. The restaurant was Mimi's. Perfectly fried seafood, stellar meze. 

Skala Kalonis is the perfect destination, and the perfect home base for exploring this extraordinary island. George and Maria at Natura Studios will help you make the very most of your stay, and you will leave them as friends.

No place in Greece has left a more profound impression on me, in every way.

When you see the news and say "oh that's so terrible look at all those people fleeing their homeland..." you can do something really easy, and really fun, to help. The refugee situation will not affect your holiday at all, but in going to Lesvos, you will spend your holiday money supporting the people who have supported all these people in need.

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Inspiring Destinations in Greece: 2016 was all Beauty and Character

2016, a year of sadness and loss in so many ways, was generous in experience and inspiration. When you blog and write about travel, experiencing is the very core of the vocation, and the year was rich in it- from the grittiest of ouzeries to five star rooftop gourmet heavens, we had many fabulous experiences. 

It's not the beauty that keeps Greece fascinating: it's the fact that the beauty represents an ideal. It has been a hard year for many in Greece, and throughout Europe, for the people already here and for the refugees being welcomed every day.  Reflecting on the many wonderful, authentic experiences I had, a handful stand out.

It all comes down to character. 

Lesvos:

Giorgos- our host, guide, and friend -
on a dirt road high above the sea, 
the most beautiful and remote place we visited all year.

The longing strains of Amanes reveal a part of the island's exotic, elusive identity 

Skala Eressos- world's most romantic beach. But no need to take my word for it:
"When I look on you a moment, then I can speak no more, but my tongue falls silent, and at once a delicate flame courses beneath my skin, and with my eyes I see nothing, and my ears hum, and a wet sweat bathes me and a trembling seizes me all over."-Sappho

By the measure of character and beauty both, Lesvos was the destination of the year. Some friends and I from Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on a unique trip to experience the beauties of an island whose shores have welcomed over a half a million refugees (more like 600,000). That was the true beauty - the grace and compassion. Tourism on Lesvos has suffered. This dynamic woman, Maria, invited us to stay at their Natura Studios in Skala Kalloni. Her husband Giorgos took us all around the island in a 4 wheel drive, sharing their lives with us. Angeliki and Vassiliki from the regional authority arranged our airtickets, Eva distillery a celebration of the island's culture, Gabriela a wonderful day in Molyvos. We fell in love with Lesvos, an island that represents the best Greece has to offer on every level- nature, history, music (amanes), the refined pleasures of ouzo, charm, and - best of all - grace.

Istanbul:

Charlene, just learning that the suicide bomb we heard had killed ten people. 

The year started with sadness. My first morning ever in Istanbul was also my first brush with the brutality growing around us. We could hear the explosion at the Blue Mosque, then a long silence, then sirens, then helicopters. After such a traumatic event, our main impression remained the gracious, refined behavior of the people of Istanbul, an inspiring example of living life with grace.

Evia:

Our otherworldy winter paradise in Evia

Right after Istanbul was our Anniversary get-together, for which I had no heart after Istanbul. Voula Karat and the family at Thermae Sylla gave us an experience that was therapeutic on every level, and it was a joyous occasion. Being with blogger friends made all kinds of sense- embrace life, and share the experience.

Almopeia:

Pater Illarion inspires with a message of banishing misery and
embracing joy in everyday life

Almopeia is a quiet region in the north of Greece, known in the city chiefly as a destination for therapeutic hot springs. They are open all day and night, and an hour's drive will bring you. This makes them a wholesome cap to an evening of excess: that hot waterfall pounds the effects of any ill judgement right out of you. But on this trip, I found rejuvenation not in the falls, but in the words of a priest. He had found that in replacing "I have to" with "I want to" grace and joy has filled his life. I tried it- it works.

Eumelia:

Marilena, our sommelier, was literally bursting with life- 
The most engaging wine tasting ever.

In July, my friend Janet and I visited Marilena and Frangiskos to share in the vision of their bio-dynamic Eumelia. Frangiskos left an EU job in Brussels, drawn by the creative possibilities of living in harmony with the environment.  Theirs is a constant evolution, giving rise that extend to philosophies touching every area of life. And don't imagine some Guru/cleansing thing- we had an abundantly great time- pure joy. My most recommended trip for 2017 would be their fully curated (and sumptuously catered) "Experience, feel, taste Laconia" week.

Kilkis:

Olga and Natalia of the Pikrolimni Cultural Society 

The last trip of the year was local- Kilkis, landlocked and not even remotely touristy. Kilkis is known for its livestock and dairy, the fish of its lakes. We found serenity (Greece's Haiku Destination), endurance, and, indeed, wonderful hospitality. At Pikrolimni was the warmest of all; we arrived at the cultural center to find a grill smoking and a long table set up. They shared their cuisine with us- local Pontian specialties like piroshkis, and dark delicious wine.  It was the highlight of our trip. That is what Greece does at its best- make you feel truly welcome.

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Things That Make Mytilene Marvelous

Mytilene- Lesvos' main town - has everything you want from an island and everything you want from a capital at the same time. There is the charm of a harbor filled with "trata" (brightly painted fishing boats) and a promenade of cafes curving around it, plus the cosmopolitan allure of contemporary culture and the grandeur of Belle Epoque prosperity. 

Cinematic Belle Epoque-

Mansions! Mansions galore. And not one kind of mansion either, but a whole panoply of European styles, of mansard roofs and deep eaves. Olive oil was expensive and Lesvos was rich in it. There was also wine, and leather- goods with a market. Foreign importers drawn to Lesvos for business built in the styles of home, as did wealthy Europeans drawn by the famous spas.

These mansions define a whole neighborhood- you feel like you're on a stage set, and probably a little under dressed. 

The Pyrgos Hotel

You could live the Belle Epoque elegance first hand and stay at the Pyrgos of Mytilene boutique hotel. We went for a coffee in the lobby- you feel glamorous just being in the salon with the soaring, ultra-ornate ceiling. It's the real thing- Maria, who invited us to her wonderful island, grew up next door - her mother used to come to dances here.

Big, Bold Baroque-

A house of worship that dominates the city scape - like Notre Dame or the Blue Mosque - sets a grand tone. Mytilene's skyline is defined by the dome of Agios Therapon cathedral, designed by Argyris Adalis- native to Lesvos, and a student of Ernst Ziller (the neo-Rennaissance Numismatic Museum in Athens, among many others). They both borrowed, and borrowed well. Agio Therapon has a grand baroque mood that- like the mansions- doesn't speak of Greece specifically but of a cosmopolitan vibe of European capitals in general.

Ancient Glamour-

The mansions of the Belle Epoque continue a much earlier tradition. Mytilene was a city of wealth from at least the 2nd C BC. We had a tour with Professor Giannis Kourtzellis of the Museum of Archaeology and couldn't stop marveling at the mosaic floors of elegant homes, including the dramatist Menander's. He filled out the corners of our imaginations with symposia and banquets. What also struck us? The reliefs depicting the dinners of the dead, held on the third and ninth days after death (days we commemorate still), and funerary reliefs for heroes- depicted on horseback. Most notable and unusual is the equestrian heroine- women were rarely depicted this way, but then this was found in Eresos (birthplace of Sappho)

And of course this arresting Praxitelous-

We learn that they're easily identified - he was known for the naturalistic "S" shaped pose of his figures. There were lots of them- originals in bronze, and copies in marble.

Fortress of Intrigue-

The best view of the city is wasted on this monumental fortress- Gatalusi's (one-time pirate) home (a wedding present along with the rest of the Island when he wed the sister of Paleologos' - Byzantine Emperor John V - is one of the largest and best preserved of the whole Mediterranean. On our tour with Archaeologist Georgia Tampakopoulou we only had eyes for the ruins and crests, and ears for her stories. She herself was inspired by the place- she had an intuition that led to the discovery of something that would have been lost forever. Visiting the site with her gave us goosebumps to be so close to the thrill of discovery. It is a tale of its own, coming soon.

The mingled crests of Galausi and Paleologos
and the seal of Constantinople

A Symbol of Welcome and People of Grace-

I grew up with a meaningful statue in the harbor by my house- it was for many the first sight of America. How perfect that Mytilene has its own Statue of Liberty-

This is a gift to the island from the people who emigrated from here to New York City. It could not be more fitting: Lesvos has been much in the news, here and around the world, because of how many refugees have passed through here. Ai Wei Wei's exhibition at the Cycladic museum in Athens has the crisis as a focal point, and the images recorded by many local photographers open the exhibition-

Photographs by Petros Tsakmakis

That is one of the reasons we are here- to see how the Island is dealing with this tremendous crisis and to show through our experience how it impacts a visitor's experience. It impacts it tremendously- if you want to be inspired by a population who responds to the need of others with grace, if you want to support an island that has done so much on behalf of us all, then you should come. The only concrete signs we saw of the refugee crisis were signs in Arabic- at souvaki places, and on the public buses. 

Classic Marina Experience-

What's an island without a marina? What's a marina without a yacht club? What's a yacht club without a great kitchen, and some Frank Sinatra and Amy Winehouse? Those are not questions we had to answer, because we spent several happy hours at the Marina Yacht Club with its adorable, unpretentious, and surprisingly young owner Eirini, enjoying all those things. We tried dish after dish- all playful, delicious, but honest and real- exactly what you want to eat as the masts cast ever longer shadows. Best soundtrack, best wine glasses, best view, best hostess. Go. Tastes like holiday.

We loved this little city, crammed with mansions and little boats, with its beautiful museum and outsized cathedral, and its boutique hotel and dining by the docks. We loved the people most of all - for their culture, warmth, and virtue. Lesvos is a perfect holiday destination, and Mytilene is the first taste.

For information on visiting Lesvos, try this site:
http://www.lesvosgreece.gr/

More of Lesvos:

A fabulous party at the EVA distillery in Mytilene where we got to know Lesvos' classic drink:

The Ouzo of Lesvos: Essentials

Molyvos is the Greece of your Dreams

Falling in Love with Lesvos: One Perfect Day

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The Shipbuilder of Lesvos

"How old would you say he is?" A simple question with a complex answer- sure, there must be a number, but he embodies timelessness in a way that renders a number irrelevant. He has the vigor and vitality of a man in his twenties, and experience and a countenance to render him ancient. As to his actual appearance, he is deeply weathered, hands of enormous usefulness with skin like armor. Men whose job it is to harness the elements - the sea, wind, fire - have a mythical quality about them. Mr. Psaradelis, the ship builder of Skala Kalonis, is such a man:

"Έίναι η ωραιότερη τέχνη. Και όπως όλες οι τέχνες, δεν τελειώνει ποτέ."

"This is the most beautiful of the arts, and like all arts, eternal."

The first time Ι came to Greece it was the sight of fishing boats - each brightly painted their own individual way - that made the most lasting impression. More than the Parthenon or Delfi, the boats embodied iconic, enduring Greece- the ruins, though glorious, are ancient, the boats timeless. They made the ancient seafaring past current. Now we are on Lesvos, land of pretty much everything we value about Greece (beauty, philosophy, grace- not to mention ouzo too). Skala Kalonis is the heart of the island, nestled in its inner curve. The harbor is flooded with that light Henry Miller liked so much and the wind nearly as strong. It is the perfect day, the perfect place to meet a shipbuilder. Mr. Psaradelis' workshop is right on the harbor, watched over by his excellent dog, Mandoukas.

The inside of the workshop smells fresh- 
"Pine is the best wood for ships, and particularly the Mytilinean pine - we are fortunate in this."
His large hand is steady at the saw as the scent fills the air. But for the saw and the crane, not much has changed. How do you learn it I wonder. "Well, there is no TEI (trade school) - it goes from father to son, from friend to friend." he explains as he pounds cotton rope between the planks to tighten the seal.

In the shaded courtyard is a large boat over a century old- he is restoring it. All its ribs exposed, it looks more like a being than a vessel, a formidable, noble being. He strokes it with admiration. "Wood is a living organism. It changes." He helps the boat adjust to the changes, all its rich character left intact. And its skeleton? As with the bones in our bodies, every single piece of wood has a different name, as integral to the wholeness of the being as it is for us. 

It seems to be a craft filled with eternal truths. Is it the oldest profession? He says that it is-

"Shipbuilding is as old as mankind."

We met Mr. Psaradelis while we were staying with Giorgos and Maria at Natura Studios- a view of the harbor and a charming bougainvillea - filled courtyard.

Falling in Love with Lesvos

The Essentials of Ouzo

Molyvos is the Greece of your Dreams

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