Celebrating Christmas in Greece.

Agia Sophia. Thessaloniki.

For the most part, we have to make do without a sugar-coating of snow (unless we drive up to the mountains- never far!). Apart from that, the Greek holiday season has everything going for it, classic, spontaneous, and above all, authentic. Festive, generous, and maybe not so commercial.

Christmas-

It is not St. Nick or Claus that the children await, but St. Vassilis, who is celebrated on January 1. Even if you are not religious (or Christian), it's refreshing to have this otherwise gargantuan holiday have less emphasis on shopping, more on generosity, friends, and gratitude. 

The week leading up to Christmas-

Make Kourabiedes and Melomakarona- they are in every house and every shop. Or buy them (but at least make the Kourabiedes- they are all about the butter and the store bought ones are with cheaper alternatives. Also they are very easy to make.) 

Buy mandarin oranges- they make the house smell fabulous! Everyone has them around for the holidays. Get a few kilos- forget pointsettas, you want mountains of these! Get them at the weekly "laiki" market- cheaper, fresher, more fun.

Christmas Eve day- 

This used to start early, really pre-dawn early. Why? The "Calanda." I would lose sleep for this custom any day. Kids go door to door singing one specific carol (they come back New Year's Eve day, with another specific carol). They say "Should we sing it?" and we answer "sing it!" and they do, as fast as possible, not always skilfully, and with triangles clanging hectically. Why so fast? We give them money. They make a shocking amount! In the past the bell would ring constantly. Now, we are lucky to have five or six groups a day.

Hope for the best and start saving up your change. We want to keep the custom alive so be generous- a euro each and five for a larger group is not too much. 

Christmas Eve Day-

Resist the practical urge to shop for your meal in advance at a well-stocked supermarket on the edge of town. Get whatever you can at your small local specialty shops (reserve your meats in advance)- each is decorated and full of cheer.

My favorite shop on Kalidromiou,
Exarchia, (Athens)

Leave a few of the lighter-weight purchases for town and brave your central market- three days a year seized with madness- today, the 31st, and "Tsiknopempti." Buy your cheeses and meet up with friends at the impromptu street parties at every cafe and shop. Smoke from grilling souvlakia fills the air. Gypsies are out with drums and clarinets (better from a distance). Gypsy kids are out too. I'm pretty sure they don't get to keep the money they gather, but they will definitely eat the chocolates that buy specially in order to stuff into your jacket pockets or bag to share with them. And get some roasted chestnuts!- Thessaloniki, Athens, Rockefeller Center- smells like holidays. And a cup of Salepi- a thick hot drink from the pounded root of a wild orchid-

Too loud and crazy? Stop into a church, light a candle, and think about things to be grateful for-

Agios Dimitrios, Thessaloniki. 

Try to get home in enough time for a nap, because Christmas Eve is family first, and "Reveillon" later- after a family dinner, many go out for Reveillon at bouzoukia and bars, returning in they soft gray light of dawn. In addition to the holiday, all the Christos and Christinas have their name day tomorrow, and many are out celebrating tonight.

Christmas Day-

A big family dinner- lamb or goat, or often the only time a year a Greek family buys a turkey. The typical stuffing? Rice, with chestnuts and pine nuts. No cranberry sauce (they totally do not get it. "Jam? Jam with the meat?"). It's delicious anyway. More Korabiedes and Melomakarona, and usually some Champagne!

The 26th-

Businesses and shops are closed for the second day of Christmas- a relaxing day for seeing family and friends. But cafes and bars are open (Clubs too- we are having our Christmas party with the Speakeasies, Thessaloniki's fabulous Swing band, and special cocktails by Charlene- if you are in Thessaloniki, come by!)

Now we have the rest of the week to prepare for the New Year's celebrations- a holiday Greece does superbly.

Kala Christouyenna.