The Culture of Ouzo, Lesvos Style

If your drink doesn't have a learning curve, 

it might be the wrong drink.

Ouzo is heaven... eventually.

A rough start-

Most of the things I like best in life, I at first didn't really like at all. 

Many people's first introduction to ouzo abroad is, well, unsubtle. If you saw My Big Fat Greek Wedding, you'll remember the scene where the uninitiated waspy couple down a few straight shots of ouzo that set their heads spinning (it can't possibly help that people keep shouting "Opa!," which is really disconcerting, and almost never happens). With a heady anise and alcohol kick, your first straight shot of ouzo shocks the palate and stuns the mind. Sadly this is how it is usually introduced abroad- a hospitable welcome, downed on the quick. But ouzo is all delicacy and finesse, and certainly nothing hurried about it.

My introduction to ouzo was not first hand, and technically was not ouzo. My parents' first date was a byob college party. My father, wishing to appear sophisticated, brought a bottle of Pernot (for our purposes here, let's call this a French ersatz ouzo- a spirit with dominant notes of anise). He had no idea what it was. They had it straight. The intensity of its memory became part of our family lore.

Without a rough start, the mystery of ouzo would not qualify as a secret. I like secrets.

A little magic-
My second introduction to ouzo was, again, technically not ouzo, but it did start to make a lot more sense. We lived in Paris one summer and often went out for an aperitif before dinner, whether were were dining out or at home. This hour of Pastis enchanted me. More delight?- the drink's magical *transformation from clear to opaque! When you would pour in some water from the manufacturer's carafe,

A selection of classic Pastis carafes at Chez Violette, my favorite restaurant in Exarchia

it would make clouds in the drink that swirled and spread like when you pour cream into iced coffee. The aroma changed from intense to... mysterious and beguiling. It's a nice ritual, the dilution- a moment of alchemy, a small magic.

This experience, combined with adopting the Greek habit of practically never having alcohol without a snack, placed me higher on the curve. I thought. Then I visited Lesvos, ouzo's spiritual home.

(There is no learning curve in Lesvos for ouzo- they were born with the subtlety needed for maximum enjoyment. Happily, they are generous with their knowledge.)

A tour and tasting at the EVA distillery deepened my affection for the drink.

Why ouzo is the perfect drink-

The grand culture of ouzo is a delight to explore, but first it is helpful to know some fundamental principals of socializing at the Greek table. These are a topic all their own- Mastering the Art of Greek Drinking explores the refined practices that can (and probably should) be adapted to any table. Ouzo lends itself particularly well to the practice of Greek drinking etiquette.

Why ouzo is the perfect drink (again)-

An authentic experience of ouzo is a revelation, almost an epiphany. The truth of things is that there is no subtler drink- imbued with grace and finesse, regulated by ritual and custom, beautiful and softly cloudy in its perfectly proportioned glass, enhancing every bite, adorning every word. You could drink this all afternoon or all night, which is good, because you will probably have to: Greeks and their fortunate guests spend a long, long time at the table, and not just on weekends and special occasions. This brings us to the first of ouzo's virtues-

Flexible and forgiving:
Ouzo is very frequently diluted with water. You can make a blend that gives you just the faintest glow, and this in turn makes it possible to extend the hours of conviviality. It also ensures they have no unwanted affect, so they can be enjoyed as often as the occasion arises (in summer especially, that is a lot).

Lesvos' neighbors also make ouzo- 
here, with mussels, in Exarchia

Lively-
I have absolutely no medical evidence- none- for this claim. But wine, which I like very much and is so nuanced and lovely and complex, very often makes me sleepy, and ouzo never does. It's a lively, inspiring drink. Elena's fresh hashtag #theouzoeffect sums it up- only good can come of having a glass of ouzo.

Canned dolmadakia and packaged taramolsalata are elevated by a glass of ouzo

A marriage of perfection-

Mezze- small plates of savory bites- are popular from here and into the east. They represent the flexibility, resourcefulness, and above all extreme hospitality that characterize this entire  part of the world. A table of mezze gives a sense of plenty, whether it is a great variety of seafoods, or a puree of dried pulses with some herbs and oil and a dish of olives. Fresh, smoked, and salt cured fish and seafoods are a central part of Greek gastronomy. So too are salty cheeses, spreads (taramosalata, tzatziki, melizanosalata), and of course olives. The soft, sweet flavor of anise is in perfect balance with the bold and salty flavors of the Greek palate. Anise is also considered a digestive- this is a drink made for food.

What we learned in Lesvos-

*"Πάμε για ενα ουζέλλη;"

All the social values that give ouzo its relevance are here in abundance. Ouzo itself flows in abundance- there are 56 types of ouzo distilled on the island. Many of the distillers came from Asia minor, and brought their recipes with them when they settled in Lesvos for a new life. More to the point, the character of the island lends itself to the drink.

From top- our cheerful party, a hard sheeps' milk cheese (made by Stratos' mother) in oil surrounded by mirabelles, 
the delicious island specialty "Salamura"- feta in a bath of sheeps' milk yogurt, 
various mezze- the salamura, beets, fava, and smoked fish- 
rich and salty flavors are particularly fine with ouzo.

Giorgos, our host, brought us to a mountain village to have lunch with his friends Maria and Strato. He explained how pleasantly the winter passes. In the summer, days are long, and filled with productivity, be that in the fields, or in the many jobs that revolve around hosting visitors to the island. In the winter, there is less work, and "...the nights are long. Friends, music, and conversation over an ouzo- these fill the long nights of winter with joy."

How to drink ouzo-

Until the very day before my trip to Lesvos, I was having ouzo with water and ice. Only once were we even brought any ice in Lesvos, and that because we were obviously not from Lesvos. Why no ice? If you put an ice cube in ouzo you will notice sparkly flakes collect around it. I always liked these. But, they are said to cause a hangover. Ouzo is drunk neat, with water on the side, or diluted with cold water.

I asked Giorgos how we serve ouzo. All the ritual of the Greek table is observed, and every bit as much toasting, if not more. The only exception- when drinking wine or tsicoudia, we may top up the glass of our neighbor if it is running low. Many people drink their ouzo with water though, and they have their own preferred ratio. Topping up their glass will throw that out of whack- wait til your friend's glass is empty to fill it again. 

Our favorite toast-

"Και εις άλλα με υγεία"

"To others (other toasts, future glasses of ouzo) in health." Even in just the five days I spent in Lesvos, I found it easy to give myself over to the benevolent hands of fate.

More on ouzo, Lesvos, and lifestyle:

Lesvos and the Essentials of Ouzo

Falling in Love with Lesvos

Master the Art of Greek Drinking for a lifestyle upgrade

Molyvos is the Greece of your Dreams

The best place to be for exploring Lesvos is the central charming harbor town of Skala Kalonis- stay with Maria and Giorgos at Natura Studios. 










* The aromatic oils of anise are soluble in alcohol, but not in water- that is why it goes all cloudy and soft. 

* "-έλλη" (elli) is the island's diminutive, like "-aki" elsewhere in Greece. This means- "Shall we go for a small ouzo?"