Carmen, in the Moonlight, at the Ancient Irodeio Theater in Athens

It's the beginning of act IV of Carmen. I'm sitting stage left at the Irodeio, itself a sight- rows of crumbling arches stacked up three high with shrubs of thyme growing out of them. To the left is the Parthenon, and closer- hard left- is the Temple of Athena Nike, so bright it nearly looks like it's on fire. From the rocks of the Acropolis itself, jutting out from the base of the temple, the night guard watches the opera, chin on his fist like a Rodin.

The Temple of Athena Nike is so bright you can't make out the Rodin/Guard in the photo- 
 he is on the mound of rock just to the Temple's right.

The act starts with a reprise of the Toreador song from the whole ensemble. Just at the song's most triumphant moment, a murmur spreads through the crowd- the moon- fat, gold and three-fifths full- is rising over the mountain, just to the right of the Parthenon. 

Culture is not always about the esoteric. Perfection can also be conventional, universal, all of the parts of a classic experience coming together at their very Zenith- hot, thyme - scented breeze, the moon, the much loved aria, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Parthenon, the guard watching.  Fans flutter like butterflies and the hushed amphitheater, still giving off the heat of the day, quivers. When you think of everything that went into this moment it's overwhelming- the rise of Athens and the vision of Pericles in the 5th C BC, the life of Herodes Atticus- Greek Aristocrat and Roman Senator- and more to the point the life of Aspasia Annia Regallia- his wife - she must have been wonderful because her memory inspired him to build this theater (and lots of other things), in the 2nd C AD. Then, God had to make the moon, then for that matter God had to make Bizet, then all of us had to be born in the late part of the 20th C with the good fortune of relative peace and prosperity to enjoy the orchestra and the fluttering fans and the warm stones and the voice of Rinat Shaham (or tomorrow, Geraldine Chauvet).

How much prosperity exactly? For the quality of the experience, not much- 25 Euroes for the upper tier. Tickets go up to 85 Euroes for the lower section, surely worth it, but then we saw so much more of the Parthenon and the moon. Click here for a seating chart and tickets. 

You don't have to know much about opera to enjoy Carmen- it's filled with recognizable songs. The theme is recognizable too- a femme fatale, (with a predictable emphasis on the fatale), the elusive yet all consuming nature of love in the Habanera, which you have heard a hundred times (to say nothing of experienced first hand), the hand of fate in the deceptively light Voyons, que j'essaie à mon tour (the card song). The experience is universal, eternal- there is no sense of time. In fact, it was four hours, including one official intermission for drinks, and two set changes-

You don't need to know much to enjoy a performance at the Irodeio either-

1. If you get the upper tier tickets, a great value, know that they are open seating- the earlier you get there the better. There can be no pleasanter place to take in the changing light of dusk. There are cushions in the upper tier as well- a relatively new addition.

2. Prepare with the following in mind-

       - The stairs, of which there are many, are unusually steep and shallow. There's no call for sports'  shoes, but be practical (and safe).

       - Shorts are unbecoming and unsuitable on the plasticized cushions.

       - Bring water, and buy more- the dry hot night feels wonderful, but is parching.

       - A fan adds as much comfort as style to the occasion. They are by no means pretentious.

       - Neither are small binoculars!

       - Hats, though, will be unwelcome in such narrow and shallow seating.

     -The theater is filled with the memories of legendary performances. There is no need to be excessively casual. 

As spectacular as a performance may be, the setting, the history, the sensation of the hot stones and breezes, the sight of the Temple of Athena Nike nearly ablaze, and, hopefully, the moon, make magic of their own. 

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