Inspiring Destinations in Greece: 2016 was all Beauty and Character

2016, a year of sadness and loss in so many ways, was generous in experience and inspiration. When you blog and write about travel, experiencing is the very core of the vocation, and the year was rich in it- from the grittiest of ouzeries to five star rooftop gourmet heavens, we had many fabulous experiences. 

It's not the beauty that keeps Greece fascinating: it's the fact that the beauty represents an ideal. It has been a hard year for many in Greece, and throughout Europe, for the people already here and for the refugees being welcomed every day.  Reflecting on the many wonderful, authentic experiences I had, a handful stand out.

It all comes down to character. 

Lesvos:

Giorgos- our host, guide, and friend -
on a dirt road high above the sea, 
the most beautiful and remote place we visited all year.

The longing strains of Amanes reveal a part of the island's exotic, elusive identity 

Skala Eressos- world's most romantic beach. But no need to take my word for it:
"When I look on you a moment, then I can speak no more, but my tongue falls silent, and at once a delicate flame courses beneath my skin, and with my eyes I see nothing, and my ears hum, and a wet sweat bathes me and a trembling seizes me all over."-Sappho

By the measure of character and beauty both, Lesvos was the destination of the year. Some friends and I from Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on a unique trip to experience the beauties of an island whose shores have welcomed over a half a million refugees (more like 600,000). That was the true beauty - the grace and compassion. Tourism on Lesvos has suffered. This dynamic woman, Maria, invited us to stay at their Natura Studios in Skala Kalloni. Her husband Giorgos took us all around the island in a 4 wheel drive, sharing their lives with us. Angeliki and Vassiliki from the regional authority arranged our airtickets, Eva distillery a celebration of the island's culture, Gabriela a wonderful day in Molyvos. We fell in love with Lesvos, an island that represents the best Greece has to offer on every level- nature, history, music (amanes), the refined pleasures of ouzo, charm, and - best of all - grace.

Istanbul:

Charlene, just learning that the suicide bomb we heard had killed ten people. 

The year started with sadness. My first morning ever in Istanbul was also my first brush with the brutality growing around us. We could hear the explosion at the Blue Mosque, then a long silence, then sirens, then helicopters. After such a traumatic event, our main impression remained the gracious, refined behavior of the people of Istanbul, an inspiring example of living life with grace.

Evia:

Our otherworldy winter paradise in Evia

Right after Istanbul was our Anniversary get-together, for which I had no heart after Istanbul. Voula Karat and the family at Thermae Sylla gave us an experience that was therapeutic on every level, and it was a joyous occasion. Being with blogger friends made all kinds of sense- embrace life, and share the experience.

Almopeia:

Pater Illarion inspires with a message of banishing misery and
embracing joy in everyday life

Almopeia is a quiet region in the north of Greece, known in the city chiefly as a destination for therapeutic hot springs. They are open all day and night, and an hour's drive will bring you. This makes them a wholesome cap to an evening of excess: that hot waterfall pounds the effects of any ill judgement right out of you. But on this trip, I found rejuvenation not in the falls, but in the words of a priest. He had found that in replacing "I have to" with "I want to" grace and joy has filled his life. I tried it- it works.

Eumelia:

Marilena, our sommelier, was literally bursting with life- 
The most engaging wine tasting ever.

In July, my friend Janet and I visited Marilena and Frangiskos to share in the vision of their bio-dynamic Eumelia. Frangiskos left an EU job in Brussels, drawn by the creative possibilities of living in harmony with the environment.  Theirs is a constant evolution, giving rise that extend to philosophies touching every area of life. And don't imagine some Guru/cleansing thing- we had an abundantly great time- pure joy. My most recommended trip for 2017 would be their fully curated (and sumptuously catered) "Experience, feel, taste Laconia" week.

Kilkis:

Olga and Natalia of the Pikrolimni Cultural Society 

The last trip of the year was local- Kilkis, landlocked and not even remotely touristy. Kilkis is known for its livestock and dairy, the fish of its lakes. We found serenity (Greece's Haiku Destination), endurance, and, indeed, wonderful hospitality. At Pikrolimni was the warmest of all; we arrived at the cultural center to find a grill smoking and a long table set up. They shared their cuisine with us- local Pontian specialties like piroshkis, and dark delicious wine.  It was the highlight of our trip. That is what Greece does at its best- make you feel truly welcome.

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Kilkis- Greece's Haiku Destination

The depth of Greece's beauty is astounding. usually it's bold, vibrant, unsubtle. But in the days of the first frosts under pearl gray skies,  and well before holiday sparkle, we found the quiet charm of Kilkis, a region of Greece's northern border, is not a tourist hot spot- part of its charm. There is plenty to see and do, without throngs of other map wielding visitors. You'll feel more traveler than tourist, and receive a warm welcome. 

Lake Doirani-

A favorite weekend activity in Greece is to take a long drive into the country to enjoy a specialty for lunch. Doirani is just such a destination, and its γριβάδι - carp - such a dish. 

For an aperitif, take in the lake's Zen serenity. The flat bottomed lake boats with their deep straight sides are completely still, the water's surface like a looking glass, but for the beavers, and the birds. There are few leaves to stir, and no breeze to stir them, but great flocks of wild geese break the silence, churning the water with the flapping of their wings. (They must be delicious, but this is a preserve protected by Natura, so we will never know).

Cave of St. George-

Greek caves are a treat, and for the traveler seeks hidden beauty. you can't get much more hidden than a cave. This one is a relatively recent discovery, from 1925, only mapped in 1960, and explored officially in the 1970's. But unofficially, much earlier- Vassilis Makridis (H.S.C.) carefully explored the cave and catalogued his findings throughout his early adolescence, before helping Anna Petrohilou of the Hellenic Speleological Society (H.S.C.). 

With him as guide, the cave is filled with the fresh excitement of discovery. The cave has six high spacious chambers and is full of markings, (like spot the Rhinoceros):

A noble and tragic fortress-

Γυναικόκαστρο- Gynaikokastro ("castle of Women"), from the last days of Byzantium, is so called for two reasons- 
1. It was strong enough that women could defend it alone and 
2. They did, lead by brave and beautiful Maroulia. 
While her husband the military commander led the men into battle, she and the women held the castle alone for days against the Ottomans. She leapt from the walls onto her horse, preferring a glorious death to sharing her enviable DNA with the invaders.

Church of St. George -

Rather than baroque opulence or Byzantine splendor, it's quiet folkloric beauty that communicates best with the landscape. St. George's Orthodox Church, from 1830, was painted by two brothers from the marsh like, equally sleepy Kalochori. See scenes of the banishment from the Garden of Eden and the early lives of our first family:

Kilkis is less than an hour from Thessaloniki. With as much, or as little as you'd like to do on a Winter outing, it's perfect for a very full day trip, or a very relaxing weekend. 

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