Inspiring Destinations in Greece: 2016 was all Beauty and Character

2016, a year of sadness and loss in so many ways, was generous in experience and inspiration. When you blog and write about travel, experiencing is the very core of the vocation, and the year was rich in it- from the grittiest of ouzeries to five star rooftop gourmet heavens, we had many fabulous experiences. 

It's not the beauty that keeps Greece fascinating: it's the fact that the beauty represents an ideal. It has been a hard year for many in Greece, and throughout Europe, for the people already here and for the refugees being welcomed every day.  Reflecting on the many wonderful, authentic experiences I had, a handful stand out.

It all comes down to character. 

Lesvos:

Giorgos- our host, guide, and friend -
on a dirt road high above the sea, 
the most beautiful and remote place we visited all year.

The longing strains of Amanes reveal a part of the island's exotic, elusive identity 

Skala Eressos- world's most romantic beach. But no need to take my word for it:
"When I look on you a moment, then I can speak no more, but my tongue falls silent, and at once a delicate flame courses beneath my skin, and with my eyes I see nothing, and my ears hum, and a wet sweat bathes me and a trembling seizes me all over."-Sappho

By the measure of character and beauty both, Lesvos was the destination of the year. Some friends and I from Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on a unique trip to experience the beauties of an island whose shores have welcomed over a half a million refugees (more like 600,000). That was the true beauty - the grace and compassion. Tourism on Lesvos has suffered. This dynamic woman, Maria, invited us to stay at their Natura Studios in Skala Kalloni. Her husband Giorgos took us all around the island in a 4 wheel drive, sharing their lives with us. Angeliki and Vassiliki from the regional authority arranged our airtickets, Eva distillery a celebration of the island's culture, Gabriela a wonderful day in Molyvos. We fell in love with Lesvos, an island that represents the best Greece has to offer on every level- nature, history, music (amanes), the refined pleasures of ouzo, charm, and - best of all - grace.

Istanbul:

Charlene, just learning that the suicide bomb we heard had killed ten people. 

The year started with sadness. My first morning ever in Istanbul was also my first brush with the brutality growing around us. We could hear the explosion at the Blue Mosque, then a long silence, then sirens, then helicopters. After such a traumatic event, our main impression remained the gracious, refined behavior of the people of Istanbul, an inspiring example of living life with grace.

Evia:

Our otherworldy winter paradise in Evia

Right after Istanbul was our Anniversary get-together, for which I had no heart after Istanbul. Voula Karat and the family at Thermae Sylla gave us an experience that was therapeutic on every level, and it was a joyous occasion. Being with blogger friends made all kinds of sense- embrace life, and share the experience.

Almopeia:

Pater Illarion inspires with a message of banishing misery and
embracing joy in everyday life

Almopeia is a quiet region in the north of Greece, known in the city chiefly as a destination for therapeutic hot springs. They are open all day and night, and an hour's drive will bring you. This makes them a wholesome cap to an evening of excess: that hot waterfall pounds the effects of any ill judgement right out of you. But on this trip, I found rejuvenation not in the falls, but in the words of a priest. He had found that in replacing "I have to" with "I want to" grace and joy has filled his life. I tried it- it works.

Eumelia:

Marilena, our sommelier, was literally bursting with life- 
The most engaging wine tasting ever.

In July, my friend Janet and I visited Marilena and Frangiskos to share in the vision of their bio-dynamic Eumelia. Frangiskos left an EU job in Brussels, drawn by the creative possibilities of living in harmony with the environment.  Theirs is a constant evolution, giving rise that extend to philosophies touching every area of life. And don't imagine some Guru/cleansing thing- we had an abundantly great time- pure joy. My most recommended trip for 2017 would be their fully curated (and sumptuously catered) "Experience, feel, taste Laconia" week.

Kilkis:

Olga and Natalia of the Pikrolimni Cultural Society 

The last trip of the year was local- Kilkis, landlocked and not even remotely touristy. Kilkis is known for its livestock and dairy, the fish of its lakes. We found serenity (Greece's Haiku Destination), endurance, and, indeed, wonderful hospitality. At Pikrolimni was the warmest of all; we arrived at the cultural center to find a grill smoking and a long table set up. They shared their cuisine with us- local Pontian specialties like piroshkis, and dark delicious wine.  It was the highlight of our trip. That is what Greece does at its best- make you feel truly welcome.

Read More »

The Beautiful World of Wine at Ktima Gerovassiliou

We're gazing out over part of the sixty-three hectares of vineyard at Ktima Gerovassiliou. The sea lies beyond them, just out of sight. 

But it plays its role, in the mildness of the winters and in the temperate summers cooled by its breezes. The soil is sandy, rich in sea fossils. The vineyards teem with life- 28 species of birds thrive among the vines. Come mid-August, these vines will all be harvested by hand. Good wine needs good grapes, and harvesters with a careful hand and skilled eye. 

Suggestion of a vine by Kostas Tsoklis

Moon by Kostas Varotsos

We, too, are in good hands- with our guide Dimitra Bazaka, whose degree in fine arts enriches the narrative. Wine and Art are both creative expressions of truth, and Art is integral to the experience of Ktima Gerovassiliou- throughout the vineyard and grounds are contemporary sculptures from Greek artists of note, commissioned for the site by Mr. Gerovassiliou. This beautiful expanse stared out as a family vineyard of 2.5 hectares. Vangelis Gerovassiliou, after working as an oenologist at Domaine Porto Carras, returned to the family vineyard with his wife Sonia Tziola Gerovassiliou and in 1981, started to renovate, his first production of a grape close to his heart.

Of the varieties in Greece, Malagousia- making a white wine full of ripe fruits and fragrance and flowers- is special. Well, this delicious grape was nearly lost to time(!). A professor at the Aristotle University rescued it, and Vangelis Gerouvasileiou was the first to vinify it- an important contribution to the world of wine. The vineyard's first production, in 1986, was a blend of Malagousia and the Greek varietal Asyrtiko.


More grapes were added over time- both Greek and international- to the whites Malagousia and Asyrtiko (a varietal of Santorni) were added Viognier, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. The reds are the Greek Mavroudi, Mavrotragano, and Limnio (a grape with a pedigree, referred to even by Aristophanes in the 5th C BC), joined by Syrah and Merlot. 

We visit the wine making facilities, marveling at the industrial beauty of the vats, the extra layers of riveted stainless steel providing added insulation-

The juice becomes wine here in these tanks with automatic cooling systems, before (in the case of the Reds) being transferred to wooden barrels for aging. We also see crushers, separators (to separate out the grape skins), a pneumatic press that pumps out the juice, a bottling machine- modern perfections in the making of an ancient thing.

Speaking of ancient things, we now visit the museum- a wonderful introduction to the history and role of wine in life: you can come away from a visit to the vineyard with a deepened appreciation for the role of wine in life without drinking a sip. I first heard about the corkscrew collection from my daughters, who came here on school trips. They were dazzled. 

In fact, this collection of corkscrews (although, at 2,600 examples, this is one of the worlds' largest collections) is but one aspect of the greater vision of celebrating the tradition of wine growing. Mr. Gerovassiliou started collecting the tools of viticulture, bottling, and barrel making 40 years ago. Next to the wine aging in barrels in the quiet (wine is alive, and it hates noise) semi-darkness is a splendid collection of history of wine in our lives.

It starts with the beauty of bottles and vessels, including amphorae such as were used to transport wine in ancient times. These were found by divers off the coast near the vineyard(!)

We also see the development of the shape of the wine bottle, from the "onion" style of the 17th and 18th centuries on beautiful opalescent glass-

to the bottles we know today.

Then we see the history of wine in ancient Greece- vessels used to blend the wine with water (these were called Krater- necessary as the wine was much more potent than our wine today), to serve the wine, and the cups from which it was drunk. We also learn who was drinking it (men only), and where (at symposia- social gatherings where men drank together, socialized, enjoyed music, and explored specific topics).

The displays have been organized by museologists. The fabled corkscrews line two walls, divided by mechanical and non-mechanical. Additionally, and fascinatingly, they are displayed in glass cases in socio-cultural groupings exploring consumer habits, trends in leisure and luxury, and artists movements of the 19th and 20th centuries.

"The Corkscrew of Consumerism"- promotional corkscrews 

In the Style of the Post War World

The next room has the tools of wine making- shears,

grape crushers, barrels, bottle racks-

Lastly, we see delightful homages of the role of wine in our lives through beautiful moments in film:

Now we return to the tasting room and visitors center, a contemporary structure with sides open to the vineyards. There is a shop filled with books on wine, many sponsored or published by the winery including a fairy tale for children to be introduced to the story of wine from vineyard to bottle. There are also recipe collections, poetry and verse inspired by wine and events at the winery.

Next, we will actually taste everything we have seen and thought and felt. The wines themselves will have a post of their own.

Ktima Gerovassiliou is very close to Thessaloniki- check their website for visiting hours, tastings, tours, and special events.

A Tasting Room among the vines

More fabulous experiences of Wine in Greece:

Eumelia: The most delightful wine tasting ever.

Wine tasting in the land of the Divine at Ktima Kourtis.

Read More »

The Most Delightful Wine Tasting Ever.

Eumelia, this fabulous Bio-Dynamic universe I visited late last month, was so inspiring that ironically I have done pretty much nothing since then- at least nothing tangible. All those nights of black starry skies and afternoons of the din of cicadas bring on introspection (the Ai Wei Wei show at the Cycladic Museum right afterwards helped, too). The effect of nature on the deeply urban can be profound.

Does wine count as profound? Well, I'm starting to think so. I have never learned, and loved, more about wine in a single evening than I did there, our first night. Frangiskos and Marilena arranged a wine tasting- Marilena is a sommelier- just for my friend Janet and me. Given what I do and where I live, I taste a lot of wine. Sometimes it feels pretentious, sometimes genuinely interesting, but never is it just plain fun. That is because I never had a wine tasting with Marilena, who put all the delight back into something intended to be delightful, deepening our understanding along the way.  

We sat on the back patio, olive trees reaching as far as we could see into the distance until they are lost to the gathering darkness. Each of us had a board with five glasses lined up, and a plate like a tapa in front of each one with that wines accompaniment- a feta, a local semi-hard crumbling goat cheese, some siglino (that is a smoked pork), a rich cured sausage with plenty of orange from Mani, and a little bergamot peel simmered in sugar syrup until it shines like a jewel.

It's sometimes hard to get to central truth of something on its own, especially the truth of an unfamiliar thing. Comparison is a clearer route to understanding. For instance, there is a room in the Metropolitan where you can walk back and forth, back and forth, comparing the brushwork of Frans Hals and the brushwork of Rembrandt. Once you have done this (like I was urged to do growing up), you get Hals (the bolder by far) the better, and you get Rembrandt the better. And when you get things, you enjoy them more- like the poetry of geometry, for instance. And in fact like wine- the most available but sometimes also most elusive of everyday pleasures.

Well, not always elusive-
Here are Yonker Ramp and his Sweetheart,
also enjoying some wine.

The tastes Marilena has selected are like that- they will sharpen and define qualities of the wine, becoming themselves more enjoyable. And then as we go on, the wines themselves will play off each other, too.

How to love wine better, in five simple lessons:

The crisp Asproudi just manages to catch the pale cool light of evening.

1. Asproudi + Feta from Monemvasia:
A tart, grassy white with a fresh, tangy, salty cheese.

When we begin, there is still some light in the sky, and that is a good thing because we are starting out with the whites, and color shapes our expectations. Our first wine is on the light, cool, grassy end of the spectrum. The transparency of this is beautiful- fresh light colors signal fresh light flavors- tangyness, grassyness. We look, then taste.

Actually, we look, then sniff, then taste:
"This is not exactly a savoir-vivre process. Put your nose right into the glass and sniff it, short fast sniffs like a dog does." We do. The scent fits the look- unripe, fresh, sour, lots of fresh cut grass. Marilena says this is the most important step- the tongue tells us basic information- how sweet/sour/bitter something is, but it is actually the nose that tells us it is an apricot. Now we sip, swish it everywhere around the mouth, frothing it around and getting some air into it, under and around the tongue, and the flavors are revealed. 

How acidic is it? Roll the wine far back on the sides of the tongue. Do you salivate? Yes- the wine is fresh, tangy.

Remember litmus paper in science class in school? Sour of course is acid. To balance acidity, we look for something alkaline- mineral- for example, salt. That's why we have the feta- it's a bright zingy wine and it can stand up to the salty bite of the cheese.  We want to balance the opposing properties of acid with alkaline, but we want to match intensity- bold wine goes with bold food, light with light, heavy with heavy. Pair the bright fresh Asprodi with a rich spicy meat, and the wine will simply disappear. Likewise, pair a strong red wine with some gemista (peppers stuffed with herbs and rice), and the food will disappear.

We enjoy each of them more together than we would separately. And we enjoy every bit. There is a vessel to pour out unwanted wine. No one uses it.

Bursting with life, Marilena uncorks the wine as I look on.

2. Kidonitsa + Sfella (a semi-hard goat cheese):
A richer, more complex white with a stronger, older cheese.

The next wine is also a white- heavier, more golden, and delightfully named- the grape is "Kidonitsa," which means "little quince." Why is it special? It's not just local to Laconia, but ancient and indigenous, and has only barely been rescued from extinction- cultivated before the Ottomans came, just a few vines somehow survived. As you would think with the history, there is some depth, complexity there- cherries, almonds, a beguiling hint of bitter in the after taste. In my notebook, I have scribbled: " !! fun! "

This wine is less acidic, more alkaline, heavier and more intense, and with that edge of bitterness needs something bolder to stand up to it- a crumbly goat cheese from Mani called sfella that we cannot get enough of and have for breakfast very day with melon. The sfella tames the bitter edge of the wine; the Kidonitsa brings out the richness of the cheese. 

3. Agiorgitkio + Siglino (smoked pork):
A fruity, straight-forward and not very tannic red with a meat.

Now we move on to a red, an Agiorgitiko- which  have drunk for years without ever associating the name with Saint George- Agios Giorgos- which is exactly what it is. It is a popular grape in Greece- a fruity red, soft, drinkable, not so very tannic, with strawberries and black cherries on the tongue. Usually a fruity red is a young red, but Marilena says this is "a tricky wine," actually from 2008. Agiorgitiko is a great main course wine- the grape is a safe bet with red sauces, pork, and takes to the siglino well. It also sets us up nicely for the heaviest and most complicated of the wines-

4. Mavroudi + Sausage with orange zest from Mani:
A complex, tannic red with a bold, spicy meat.

Mavroudi- which has the same DNA as the Asproudi we began with- is quite a wine. It absorbs all our attention: we go through the same process like we have with each wine- the looking, the sniffing, the swirling, but it takes longer because the wine is longer- long aroma, long aftertaste. You can feel it rolling out like a carpet. It goes through an interesting spectrum as it unfolds- fruits first, then heavier spices, then - "zoikotita"- a certain animal liveliness- barnyard giving way to meat. When that fades, there is an aftertaste of black olives, like those that will soon weigh down the branches of trees all around us.

The Mavroudi is tannic- so astringent it has us all smacking our tongue and our lips. Marilena reveals a brilliant simple truth:

Proteins cut tannins. 

That's why strong black tea takes well to milk, and why a rich tannic wine like this one calls out for meat. We bite into the sausage- the bold flavors tame the wine, the proteins tame the tannins, and it is nothing but balanced liveliness as we alternate bites with sips. 

Did I mention how Caravaggio it has grown over the course of the first four wines?

Janet and Marilena aglow in the beauty of the evening.

Now it's time for dessert.

5.  Rosé + a homemade bergamot peel in syrup:
Semi sweet with sweet, or semi sweet with super-salty (like a Sauternes with brie).

This demi - sec rosé is delicious, complicated, from Agiogioritiko, Kydonitsa, Asyrtiko, and Moschofilero. We have it with some classic spoon sweet made by Ioanna- the complex bergamot stands up to the wine, but Marilena says that, although usually we try to pair the characteristics of the wine with the food- like this perfect match, it can be fun to go the other way and balance them- a salty cheese and a sweet wine. Contrasting in taste, but equal in intensity.

The stars have been growing brighter with every sip. Now we play- moving from one wine to another, paring off different tastes, testing out the basics we have learned. In the far distance, trees are lit from below, for a little cozy drama in the night. They are glowing, just like Marilena. You look at her and think ideally all sommeliers would be 8 months pregnant- there could be no subject more full of life, and no better presenter.

The wines we enjoyed were from two local producers, Theodorakakos, and Monemvasia.

Both are near Eumelia- a paradise so pristine and untouched you cannot imagine that it is actually right in the middle of everything you would want to see- 45 minutes in any direction brings you to a new wonder- Monemvasia, swimming in the turquoise waters of Mani and having a lobster macaroni by the sea in your damp bathing suit and a pareo, the mountains of Taygetos, and ridiculously photogenic mountain villages. Then you come home and walk to your bio-dynamic chic bungalow under a blanket of stars so bright they outshine the moon.

More about Eumelia-

Tea Time in the Garden of 
Eden

A drive to Gytheio is all glamour








More about Wine:

The Beautiful World of Wine at Ktima Gerovassiliou

Wine tasting in the Land of the Divine - Mt. Olympus

More on embracing Dionysus with style and grace: Mastering the Art of Greek Drinking.

Read More »

Mastering the Art of Greek Drinking

Our happy corner of the Mediterranean has a reputation for Dionysian chaos. This is just a half-truth. A Dionysian joie de vivre does set the tone of everyday life- with that, there is plenty of drinking. But none of that drinking is chaotic. Drinking, in fact, is probably one of the least chaotic things about Greece. The relationship to alcohol here is refined, elegant- a defining aspect of culture. What makes it special? 

In Asmomatos, Lesvos, with friends.

First, this is a sociable culture, and drinking is a sociable activity. Drink is parallel to conversation, not an end in itself. As this is Greece, there will probably also be something to eat- our next point:

- Traditional Greek drinks- raki, tsipouro, tsicoudia, wine, retsina, and- perhaps especially- ouzo- are classically enjoyed with food. Why do I say especially ouzo? It's very name is linked with food- an Ouzerie is a type of restaurant where you have a variety of small plates with ouzo; ouzo mezedes are the meze (small plates) that are made to enjoy with ouzo. Ouzomeze (spoken as one word) is your order in a classic Kafeneio- where a glass of ouzo automatically comes with a small plate of bites (an olive, a smear of tarama, an anchovy... ). This also applies to international drinks- cocktails. Cocktail bars generally have no kitchens, but the snacks they bring- even if just mixed nuts and potato chips although very often there are cucumbers, carrots, olives, cubes of cheeses, breadsticks- are better and more plentiful than you may be served in other countries. 

- Alcohol is not stigmatized and marginalized in Greece. Children can be sent to the kiosk for cold beers if we run out during a barbecue. My daughters had wine on a field trip to a vineyard in grade school ("Oh, not much mama- just a sip."), and they have beers with their teachers on the weekend trips they take in High School. The happy result? - a slow introduction to drinking, in a social context. You may see a drunken teenager in Greece, but not often, and rarely are they dangerously drunk. It just doesn't have that juvenile thrill of the forbidden.

-There is no "open container" law- you can get a whiskey at the outdoor cinema, and you can get a cold bottle of retsina and some plastic cups at the kiosk, and sit on the ground at the waterfront. A group of university students enjoying the sunset together this way is a happy sight.

-Lastly, and most importantly, it never seems to bring out the worst in people. Convivial, jovial groups get a little bit loud, and there is more laughter. As to fighting and public vulgarity? - very, very rare. 

(Amid so much to admire, one improvement is vital- both education about drunk driving and enforcement are deeply wanting.)

The nicest part about drinking in Greece is that the easy flow of alcohol, the nearly constant raising of glasses, is anything but chaotic. There is order, and grace- custom continually reinforces drinks' place of bringing the group together, of commemorating the moment, and celebrating life.

Mastering the Art of Greek Drinking:

- Whatever the drink (wine, tsicoudia, beers, ouzo), you don't just start drinking. 

- Don't worry, you will not go thirsty. After everyone's glass has been filled, there will be a general "γιάμας!" ("our health!") to start things off. Thereafter, sip from you glass as you like.

- Well, not exactly as you like- there will be some mandatory drinking when a new round of toasting is occasioned, such as:

• If anyone new joins the party, we will all toast afresh when their glass is filled for the first time.
• Whenever anyone's glass is refilled, it is not uncommon for them to toast with the fresh portion. This happens a lot- glasses are generally small, and so refilled often, perhaps to this very purpose. You can fill your own glass, but fill the empty glasses of your neighbors first. Who fills whose glass? Just as you wish, but it much follows the pattern of society in general- gentleman often fill ladies' glasses, and you fill the glass of your great aunt.
• From time to time, someone will simply be seized with the impulse to toast. This is particularly the case at a large table- a party of six are often engaged in the same conversation; a party of seven or more, you will likely be engaging with your closest neighbors. A toast reunites the group.
• Is there a happy event coming up? There will be more toasting still.
• Is this all sounding like too much? By all means, do join in every toast. Just don't take a mouthful- wet your lips with the glass.

(As glasses are raised in one of these impromptu toasts, there is a quick scan- any glasses needing a refill get one now.) These occasional toasts bring a large group back together. Although rising from your chair to chime glasses with someone otherwise out of reach is not mandatory, it's very much in the spirit of things to do so, at least some of the time. At other times you meet the eyes of those seated far away and raise your glass to them. 

Sound complicated? It quickly becomes natural- in fact, it is difficult to unlearn. Visiting San Francisco, I was half through a festive meal and parched for my first cool sip of white wine. But what was I to do? No one had toasted yet, and I was not the host and also the youngest by a generation. I looked around and saw everyone drinking at their own pace. Much as I wanted a sip myself, taking it without ceremony did seem unhappily occasionless.

That is perhaps the the key to letting just the right amount of Dionysus into our lives- making an occasion out of every day.

For more on Greece's iconic national drink, read about:

The Essentials of Ouzo

The Culture of Ouzo, Lesvos Style

Read More »

Wine Tasting in the Land of the Divine- Mount Olympus

"I have never raised so many glasses of wine in 48 hours." This, without irony and without drama, in response to the question:

"But how could you be tired? You've been at a Five Star Resort."

I have indeed- hosted with the warmth (and loving excess) that marks Mediterranean hospitality in general, and the hospitality of the region of Pieria (Mt. Olympus, Dion, monasteries and museums, and much rural beauty) in particular. I am there along with 70 of my colleagues- people who love Greece, and love to talk about it. Wine was an integral part of our journey. We drank in the essence of the landscape, guided by the hands who tend it.

In less time than it took me growing up to ride the A train from SoHo out to Stillwell Avenue in Brooklyn (Coney Island) to swim, I can be in the center of Katerini. A bus leaves from Thessaloniki every half hour, and there are many trains throughout the day- a perfect day or weekend trip. It's a really fine town- more cosmopolitan than a village, but small enough that the structure of public life is not frayed by anonymity. Like R. W. Apple Jr. wrote of Lyon, it's as though they liked the 1950's so much they decided to stay there. This means: good manners, broad treesy pedestrian walks, and people dressing for promenade. 

Plus, postcard pastel Vespas, and sleepy cats in just the right shade of orange.

As also is said of Lyon, they dine very, very well- elegant, honest dishes (deserving a post of their own).
This is not a wine tasting tour- wine is just one thoughtfully curated aspect of the whole experience. But that experience does start at a winery, and it's not Napa. We are in the bus a good long time, making sharp turns back and forth as we climb a steep hill. The headlights of the bus catch the tree trunks thick at the road's edge. We're pretty far from anything like electricity and the moon is small and high- it's a landscape that makes you feel thrillingly a little lost, and in that that heightened mood of finding something hidden, we arrive at the edge of Rachi- a few stone houses, a streetlight. The bus won't fit, and we walk in the mountain-clear air. It has a bite, tempered by the smell of wood smoke. Stacks of split wood in an outdoor kitchen- central to Greek country life- announce the rustic, authentic character of the Kourtis Winery:

Just off to the right of the patio are the wines in their modern vats. Apostolos Kourtis introduces us to his young winery.

Apostolos Kourtis with my friends from Travel Bloggers Greece
Chrysoula Manika (l) and Marissa Tejada

Someone is asking what sound like all the right questions- about things like elevation and soil. Things I do not know enough to ask. The answers illuminate little.

In a stone cottage across the road, 

Rosy Rosé

there is a cava, and a tasting room upstairs. My friends and I end up sitting next to a genial, well-informed couple- the same that were asking the interesting questions. This is lucky- the couple shares their experience at wine tales, and are vibrant with knowledge and joy. They share both. And with glasses in our hands, wine begins to make sense in a way it never has before.

Our companions share a simple, beautiful truth- wine follows the path of life just like everything else, and all the impressions it contains- olives and almonds and apples alike- follow this path too. The flavors in the wine (the apples, the olives) are fresh and light and green when they are young; as they mature they acquire richness and depth. The green olive becomes in time a rich olive paste; the tart fresh berry grows dark, jammy, juicy and ripe. 

This makes wine like us- replacing the bright, ephemeral freshness of youth with, we hope, fullness and complexity, as a thing becoming evolves into a thing that has become.

More on Wine:

5 things I learned about wine in an olive grove at sunset.

The Beautiful World of Wine at Ktima Gerovassiliou.









_______________________________________________

More of Pieria:

Mountain Chic: Dining with Zeus

Listening to the past at Dion 

Everything that made Pieria the Land of the Gods is still there, in abundance. This site is enormously useful, whether for a planned trip, or a spontaneous weekend:

http://visitpieria.gr/pieria_15_en.html

Have a wonderful time! We certainly did.

Travel Bloggers Greece-
 comparing notes on a spirited tasting.

Read More »