Carpe Diem, Greek Style

Dawn at Eumelia- a Laconian Ideal. One of the best things about living in Greece full time is the relative tranquility of the spring and fall, the experiences this makes possible, the connections to the rhythms of the existing culture which get covered over in summer by millions of people- often seeking, ironically, just those rhythms. The off-season experience of Greece is often more authentic,...

Read More »

Guiding Architects- Touring the Beautiful Architecture of Budapest

One of the great things about the Mediterranean lifestyle is that you can so easily slip away from it for a quick, strong dose of Mitteleuropa. An 11 o'clock brunch of feta and eggs in Thessaloniki, and just four and a half hours later I was looking out at the Danube from my balcony at the Gellert. What makes a perfect dose of Mitteleuropa? For me, architecture and urban planning. Budapest...

Read More »

A March of Remembrance: Thessaloniki-Auschwitz

Some time ago I was speaking to an elderly gentleman in my neighborhood. He shared a memory of some older boys he had grown up with. They told him about the day the Jews were rounded up. It was so sudden that they didn't even lock up their houses. The boys wandered in. Of all the shocking things, what struck them most was that the food still warm on the table, and there was no one to eat it. Sunday...

Read More »

In Volos, Drinking Tsipouro is an Art Form

I love it that the vagueness, the occasional freewheeling chaos of our little Mediterranean paradise disappears just where you'd expect it the most. It may be pandemonium at the supermarket or the post office, but never where you have a drink in your hand- (see Mastering the Art of Greek Drinking for more on this particularly useful aspect of Mediterranean finesse) Alcohol in Greece...

Read More »

What's the Best Time to Visit Mykonos? Have it all to yourself in March

March in Mykonos is all anticipation- buzzsaws and oil paint. Construction zones turn into fully stocked boutiques, literally overnight. The Nepheli, first cruise ship of the season, is arriving in four days.  But, until then, we have the place to ourselves. I'm thinking it's the perfect time to see what real Mykonos is like, because this is an unreal place, where the Louis...

Read More »

Pelion is Gorgeous in the Rain- things to do in Zagora, Kissos, Vizitsa, Milies, Portaria.

Pelion is dazzling in the sun, but it takes a rainy day for it to really shine. We found the dramatic snow-capped mountains-meet sea scenery and postcard-perfect villages even more romantic in the rain.  Have a Tsipouro in Zagora- Whenever it rains at home it feels like perfect weather for red wine. Well, in Pelion, it's perfect weather for Tsipouro- the distilled grape spirit, usually...

Read More »