Things to Love About Greece

1. One of the two National Holidays is called "No" day (Oxi = "Ochi"). This single word was famously the defiant answer to the Axis' ultimatum, and that's the holiday we're celebrating today, with these 27 other beautiful things:

Agiou Dimitriou on the night of October 26th.

2. Saints' Days.

3. Market - Much household shopping is done at farmers' markets. One day a week, a neighborhood street turns into a riot of beautiful fruits and vegetables, snapping crabs, and shimmering fish. Same vendors every week- we get to know each other.

4. More on neighborhoods- you're never anonymous. You could call it nosiness, but it's really about accountability, the honor of being part of a community.

The best Bougatsa in Athens is made by a man from Thessaloniki- on Solonos. 

5. Bougatsa - a warm dish of phyllo filled with sweet semolina cream, spinach, cheese, or spiced minced meat, served chopped into small pieces and eaten with a fork, a carton of chocolate milk on the side.

6. Greek Salad (here called "village salad'- "horiatiki"). Never gets old.

7. Boys walk with their arms around each other's shoulders, and girls hold hands.

8. Outdoor summer cinemas- jasmine in the night air, and whiskey on ice at the snack bar.

9. Fresh anchovies flow like water, cheaper than the lemons we squeeze on them.

10. Promenade - dressing up for the evening stroll.

11. Ouzo on ice, cloudy white and just a little bit sweet.

12. Lots of nice rough dark wine never sees a glass bottle - it goes straight from casks to empty fanta bottles.

13. Same for Raki.

14. Malamatina and its iconic logo (!). Nothing's better with fried Bakaliaro and Skordalia.

15. Ion chocolate with almonds in its classic blossom - covered pink wrapper.

16. Goats on hillsides, with their tinkling brass bells.

17. Being able to follow a football match just by the shouting from cafes.

18. Ferries painted white with their rough blue decks.

19. Senior ladies travelling on the ferries with their birds!- They have them in tiny travel cages.

20. Small dogs so nobly carrying their ancient Greek names - Clytemnestra (a dachshund), and a chihuahua named Socrates.

21. Fat flakes of salt scraped from rocks by the sea.

22. The sound of the dice and tiles on wooden backgammon boards in the summer.

23. Old men arguing about politics.

24. Frappe.

25. Recycling centuries of beauty and grace - Church columns and their capitals taken from Roman ruins and other older structures, like these in Agiou Dimitriou.

26. Nine Euro train tickets From Thessaloniki to Athens.

27. Greek coffee, and the coppersmiths' Briki we use for it.

This man brought a tablecloth, transistor radio, and a split of Asti Martini (!),
the better to enjoy an afternoon swim (on a Tuesday).

28. Making the very most of every beautiful day.

What are some of your favorite things?

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Double Greek Coffee Meringues- for International Coffee Day.

Actually, every day is coffee day in Greece. Ours is happily a nation of delicious and inventive coffee drinks. As in so many other nations, the word is nearly synonymous with socializing.

But two iconic coffee drinks differentiate Greek coffee drinking from that of European neighbors. The first is, of course, Greek coffee- finely ground to a powder that is blended together with the water and what in every household is understood by the word "coffee." This is what is known more commonly throughout the world as (sorry) Turkish coffee. 

Greek coffee has a lot going for it:

skill- preparing it well and giving it the characteristic dense and subtly grainy head of kaimaki ("cream") takes a practiced hand. There is precision to the heat and the timing.

rustic, minimal equipment- a simple portable mini camping gas burner is part of every household;

craftsmanship- you can buy a selection varying sizes of beautiful specially designed brewing pots with a long handles, hand made by metal smiths.

ritual and lore:  In all other types of coffee extraction methods, the grains just go to waste. In Greek coffee, they foretell the future: looking for signs and symbols in the patterns left by residual thick grains in the overturned coffee cup is a traditional skill so back in vogue that many coffee shops advertise the service. (Also, a little coffee accidentally splashed on the saucer? - Good luck- money is coming to you.)

There is an elegance in this elemental drink- coffee, water, heat- to which is added only craftsmanship. There are no filters, no percolators, no steam extractors. 

On the opposite end of the spectrum of tradition and craftsmanship is the other main coffee of Greece: instant coffee- Frappe if cold, "Nes" (short for the most popular instant coffee brand) if hot. This is served everywhere- elegant cafes have "Nes" on the coffee menu, right next to the cappuccino and the cafe au lait, and they bring it, whipped into a froth, in fine china cups with a tray of biscuits on the side. Every kiosk sells the makings of frappe- a bag containing a plastic cup with a shaker top, an individual serving envelope of nescafe, and 2 sugars. You can get a high-end Frappe too- it is even on the menu of the legendary and splendid Hotel Grande Bretagne (really- I just checked). Instant coffee granules whipped into a froth with cold water and some sugar and canned (never fresh!) milk added is surprisingly tasty.

These super-easy Baroquely gorgeous meringues pay tribute to Greece's two most popular coffees. There is no getting around the high sugar content of a meringue- it is what stabilizes them and gives them their lasting structure. The rich aromatic bitterness of coffee in these goes a long way to cutting the sweetness. You will never have had a meringue with a more balanced flavor or elegant appearance, free of the sugary bam and the blinding whiteness (nothing against weddings and baptisms....).

These will take you about 15 minutes, cost you about 75 cents, and for that will cause all kinds of fuss piled high on a pretty tray. 

We will need:

4 egg whites
200 g/ 1 C white sugar
a dash of salt
2 tsp. of instant coffee dissolved in 1 tsp. of vanilla extract (homemade here) or whiskey or rum (or water if it must be)
2 tsp. of Greek coffee

1. Beat the whites with a dash of salt until frothy and begin adding the sugar, spoonful by spoonful so that it has a chance to dissolve, beating all the while. A dense, glossy meringue will form in about 5 - 8 minutes.

When they whip up to a stiff peak they will hold their shape beautifully.
 Keep checking so as to not over beat- they could toughen.

2. Add the diluted instant coffee and blend:

3. If you have a pastry bag and a tip, pipe them into decorative swirls onto a baking sheet lined with non-stick baking paper. Otherwise shape them as you like with a spoon- they will hold their form beautifully(!). Keep in mind that they will swell a little in the oven. Dust them with the powdered Greek coffee:

4. Bake them in a very slow oven, 100 C/ 215 F - 120 C/ 250 F- check them- if they oven is too warm they will take on color, which we don't want. They dry as much as bake, and will take at least an hour to do so. We need them dry only on the outside, such that they can be easily and cleanly lifted from the paper. A little melting softness on the inside is nice. 

Success is assured on a dry day, but making them in the heavy rain could try your patience. They would be excellent sandwiched together with whipped cream (not very sweet).

(Ironically, we serve them with tea):

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